Spooner
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 13 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | FA: Jon Nelson, Darryl Cramer '83 |
Page Views: | 2,820 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Drewsky on May 6, 2009 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
A powerful start leads to a cruxy balance move. Sustained, delicate climbing leads past several small corners and a small roof to finish on a ledge.
The fact that this route has been flashed by Lynn Hill should be enough to silence any complaints about the reachy climbing. The crux is 100% Index and is more than enough to keep almost any ego in check.
The second clip is powerful and a fall from that point would be a ground fall. Also, my diminutive 5'10" reach was just barely enough to get the first quickdraw on from the ground, so bring a tall friend (AKA a stick clip) along if your arms are shorter. The bolt after the crux is even more reachy unless you are bold.
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