Books on self rescue

I'm looking to buy a book on self rescue and am wondering if anyone has opinions on which one. I've read fasulo's book and thought it was pretty good, it's at my library. The one from the Mountaineers is not at my library. I want to buy one to always have on hand as a reference. Has anyone looked through both and have thoughts as to if one is better? Thanks.

i own both

Mr Fasulo's book is friendly towards new folks with better drawings

Mr. Tyson and Mz Loomis book has a few more scenarios and a bit of different material

you would be fine with either one

the key of course is to go out and practice, practice and practice ... plenty of folks read about self rescue and but very few practice at least once every few months

and realize that theres a very good chance you wont be able to execute it where it counts under poor conditions unless yr well rehearsed

practice it when climbing conditions are poor ... or when yr trashed from climbing at the end of the day ....

I have both and I found the Fasulo book hard to get my head around, too many techniques for many scenarios. I'm working my way through the Loomis and Tyson, currently I'm finding it better in terms of the big picture, but some of the procedures aren't well illustrated, Mike Clelland's pix in the Fasulo book are good...

Yeah, it would be nice if someone would publish a small quick reference handbook for self rescue much like those for wilderness first aid. Something like this, but for recreational:
cmcrescue.com/equipment/rop…

I also have both books. While the drawings are better in Fasulo's book, Tyson and Loomis book is easier to understand and gives a better overview of the rescue process. I also think it is more practical.

The Fasulo book is a good intro, but the other book goes further.

Truck13

Just to go against the grain, I think Fasulo's is much better. You need the current edition, as I think it takes a different stance on one or two things. The logic of using a physical ledge rather than prusiks/PMMOs etc. is all very sensible.

Against the book, and all others I've seen, is the impression that some stuff might not have been extensively tested by the author in a realistic setting: hauling being an example.

The diagrams are excellent.

If you want additional colour photos, just see multipitchclimbing.com
and look at chapter 13.

David Fasulo's second edition is the better of the two, imho. I mostly looked at the pictures and tried to figure out from them but I recently started reading the text and it is making far more sense to me now. I highly recommend it, everyone should have at least a little bit of that knowledge kicking around in their brain.

I started with the Fasulo 1st edition -- actually practiced some of the basic techniques.

My feeling after that was that the procedures to cover every difficult situation were going to take too much "refresher" practice time (year after year) for it to be realistic for me to remember them eight years from now sometime when I might unexpectedly need to do it for real. So I decided I would need to instead focus on a limited number of techniques that would handle a less-improbable range of scenarios -- limited enough so I could get me and a partner or two motivated to expend the time to actually practice each procedure say at least once a year.

Later I got the Tyson & Loomis book, and felt that it enabled me to select that limited number. And I practiced them all once outdoors (and just only that limited set took plenty of time), and the explanations in the book worked to enable me to perform in a practice situation.

Then the 2nd edition of the Fasulo book got published. It is way better than the first edition. Seemed to have lots of good ideas, some not in the Tyson & Loomis book. But at that time I was not sufficiently motivated to actually practice them, so I can't way which book "works better" for me.

My next annual(?) practice session (soon?) I'll see what improvements I find from re-reading key sections of both books.

I noticed that both books have lots of helpful tipe about managing rope and equipment which are not strictly part of the rescue procedures. (e.g. the L & T section about avoiding problems when rappeling is pretty insightful).

Ken