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Routes in Dragontail Peak
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A Kidney for a Friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backbone Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Complete Northeast Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Der Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Direct North Buttress WI5 M4 PG13 |
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Dragons of Eden T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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East Route Mod. Snow |
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Gerber-Sink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M4+ Steep Snow |
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Serpentine Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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This, My Friend T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Couloirs WI3 M3 Steep Snow R |
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West Route Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Snow, 2500 ft (758 m), 20 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 22,446 total · 141/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Bartholomew on Mar 7, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
This is a uber classic in the Enchantments. From Colchuck lake, Head towards the lowest protrusion of rock approximately in the middle of the peak. Bear slightly left, where you will see two possible starts. Take the left or right start of the first couloir. Ascend this until you reach the runnels. These are the steep snow and ice pitches separating the first and second couloirs. These take ice screws depending on conditions or pitons and some rock gear. From the top of the runnels continue up the second couloir. Exit the second coulior via a mixed pitch or steep snow pitch depending on conditions. Continue up the less steep third couloir to the summit. From the summit ridge go right to the true summit. Descend down and right to a notch. From here, take a direct line towards Asgard Pass.
Protection
This climb really requires a great deal of soloing or run-out climbing. Therefore it is not recommended for beginners. Comfort on steep snow is a great asset on this climb. Also climbing WI3 very comfortably is a plus.
A medium rack including small nuts, 4-5 pins, and cams from .5-2 and 4-5 ice screws (but you probably won't use that many). A couple pickets also are helpful.
A medium rack including small nuts, 4-5 pins, and cams from .5-2 and 4-5 ice screws (but you probably won't use that many). A couple pickets also are helpful.
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