here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

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Top of pitch 3

beautiful day on cannon!

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3.5 from 4 votes

Lee Hansche

Jul 16, 2010

“here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...”

6 Comments

Nearby Photos

Another beta of the route...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

Shot of the arete

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Johanna

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Nice exposure on this one

Party high up on WG, viewed from The British Were Coming. 10/10/2021

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

Middle Section W-G Ridge

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Top Section W-G Ridge

High-stepping into P2.

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

The pipe

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

Whitney Gilman route

Obvious WG line on a blustery June afternoon.

The climb has so many nice places to pull shoes and relax.

3 pitch break-up. Photo credit to Lee.
<br>
If I were to do this route again, I would do it in 3 pitches with a 70m.
<br>
Take care to extend pieces.

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

W-G

Blasting off on pitch 3

The Pipe Pitch

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Top of pitch 3

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

beautiful day on cannon!

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Pitch 5 corner. With Cathedral Mtn Guides

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Climbers on the 5.8 "Higher Exposure" Variation

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Exposure on the WG

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Remnants of an old cam can be seen in the middle of the picture. Taken at the beginning of pitch 2.

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

The pitch 2 (5.7 variation).

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