Climbing Partner for 22 Pitch Sport Climb over Memorial Day weekend!!!

Hey guys how goes it? I'm looking to climb Squawstruck over Memorial Day weekend. It's a 22 Pitch sport route in Rock Canyon in Provo, UT. It's rated a 5.11-. However, according to the FA there is only 1 pitch that is rated 5.11-. With them being split about 50/50 of 5.10 climbing with the rest below that grade. Here is the MP page for the route.

mountainproject.com/v/squaw…

Currently the hardest climb I've ever done is a 5.10d. I wasn't able to climb it clean but I didn't need to be hauled up it either. I just needed a rest halfway up. I have everything we'll need to climb it except the 70m rope (mine is 60m) but am willing to drop the cash to pick one up if I'm able to find a willing partner to climb it. I'm hoping to do the route in one single LONG day but am willing to bivey or bail depending on what you feel comfortable with doing. Anywho, gimme a shout if your interested and we can work out the details. Cheers!

...3...2...1....

Huh? LOL!

Memorial Day is going to be pushing it weather-wise, especially if 10d is your limit. Unless you start early in the morning, climb fast, and knock it out quickly (which seems unlikely), you're going to need gallons of water and you're going to get real hot.

That being said - some of my best memories come from getting over my head and getting my ass kicked. As long as you don't die, it'll be an experience!

Gee whiz . . . I thought this post was a joke. I mean, a twenty-two pitch sport route? Really? Then I clicked on the link and read the route description. Apparently, this kind of thing is called "sportaineering." (You learn something every day . . . )

I havent been on the route but I have spoken to two different groups of people and they both said the crux was finding the route's first pitch apparently it is a confusing approach.

So if you're just bumming around the area maybe go ahead and find the first pitch (and apparently you can walk off around p6 or p10 I forget what they said).

So a first mission could be find the route and do the first half (if you're not ready to commit to the entire route).

Would be a proud send!

Onsight it!!!! You got balls :)

this is second hand info so take it with a grain of salt.

If I was still around I'd rope up with you and go for it.

5.samadhi and Austin, thanks for the input. I hear that route does get pretty hot being south facing and in direct sun the entire time. I picked up one of BD's 70L haul bags specifically for this route. The plan is for me and said climbing partner to climb each pitch with the 2nd attaching a tag line so we can haul the bag up to the belay station after each pitch. This way we can pack all the food/water we need without it hindering us while actually climbing. I'm also going down there next weekend to scout it out and planned on climbing the first few pitches to get some beta and a feel for the difficulty. My hope is that by doing so I can memorize some of the sequences of the first few pitches and essentially cut down on the time it takes. I also figured this might make it possible to get a legit alpine start so we can have the crux pitches out of the way before the hottest part of the day. But in the end I don't mind spending the night half way up if need be. With that being said, I realize this is crazy. But at the end of the day the whole idea of scaling vertical rock faces up several hundred feet (hell anything over 100+ feet for that matter) seems crazy to most people in general LOL!

So.....who's in?!

Bonneville wrote:I picked up one of BD's 70L haul bags specifically for this route. The plan is for me and said climbing partner to climb each pitch with the 2nd attaching a tag line so we can haul the bag up to the belay station after each pitch.

This is a really bad idea. Most of the route is pretty slabby, with the cruxes coming at roofs. It would be a massive, massive pain to haul on the thing. I can see the bag getting stuck on just about every pitch.

It's going to be extremely hot and unpleasant up there on Memorial Day.

I don't think the approach is all that complicated (hike up the canyon until you see the campsite that's across the streambed just past the gate, hike uphill to the north from there, aiming for the lowest point in the limestone above you, until you're at the base of the route; you can also see the first pitch for I think the entire approach), but I'm probably the wrong person to ask. Going and checking out the approach beforehand like you said is never a bad idea.

Good luck! The climb is fun in its own way and unique for the area.

I haven't climbed this but from the description it sounds like a route you don't want to haul on. Loose and ledgy.

I'd suggest getting a little more experience with multipitch before attempting a 22 pitch route but it looks like you can bail at any point so have at it I guess.

Thanks for the heads up on the bag idea! Looks like we'll be going the backpack route then. As for the heat. If it gets too hot I'm not opposed to bailing either. Whether it be rapping or finding the walk mentioned above.

Until then, go check out some of the other long sport routes in the canyon there. There are lots of fun multipitch 5.8s and 5.9s on the quartzite. They're easier than Squawstruck, less committing, have a super easy approach, are doable with a 60-meter rope, get less sun, and can be done in a few hours.

Bonneville wrote:Hey guys how goes it? I'm looking to climb Squawstruck over Memorial Day weekend. It's a 22 Pitch sport route in Rock Canyon in Provo, UT. It's rated a 5.11-. However, according to the FA there is only 1 pitch that is rated 5.11-. With them being split about 50/50 of 5.10 climbing with the rest below that grade. Here is the MP page for the route. mountainproject.com/v/squaw… Currently the hardest climb I've ever done is a 5.10d. I wasn't able to climb it clean but I didn't need to be hauled up it either. I just needed a rest halfway up. I have everything we'll need to climb it except the 70m rope (mine is 60m) but am willing to drop the cash to pick one up if I'm able to find a willing partner to climb it. I'm hoping to do the route in one single LONG day but am willing to bivey or bail depending on what you feel comfortable with doing. Anywho, gimme a shout if your interested and we can work out the details. Cheers!

Hauling is an absolutely terrible idea on this climb.

Superhydrate starting the morning before the climb. Drink 4-6L over the course of the day. Drink 2L during the approach. Do the climb with leader carrying a tiny pack (REI Flash 18 is perfect) with maybe 2L water. Follower has slightly bigger back with 3-4L water. Follower can take the small pack for the crux pitch(es). Leave another 1-3L (total) in your packs at the base for when you get down. That will cover your water needs for the long day.

You may want to consider electrolyte replenishment - get Nuun tabs to dissolve in 1 or 2 of your water bottles. Skip the powerade/gatorade. That shit is well-marketed sugar and food coloring, nothing more.

With any luck, one of the weekend days might have more cloud cover - choose that day.

At your climbing level, I'm not even going to discuss simul climbing. Don't do it. My recommendation to you - you'll have the best chances of success (and avoiding misery) if you pre-scout the approach and first 3-5 pitches. Better yet would be to hike in the previous evening to camp at the base. Be climbing by 4AM - you'll already know the first couple pitches. Have a good headlamp. When you pre-scout the climb, if you aren't doing 3 pitches an hour, you probably can't finish this climb.

Time your belay changeovers - on a sport route, they should be under 3 minutes. Seriously. Hand off quickdraws and go! There's no excuse for anyone to not be ready to climb the instant the rope comes tight. Don't wear your tight bouldering shoes - have something comfortable, your feet will swell.

Sell that haulbag.

i think you guys got trolled....

Kyle Christie wrote:i think you guys got trolled....

Nah, I think he's sincere. I think he just makes bad decisions.

Jon H wrote:Superhydrate starting the morning before the climb. Drink 4-6L over the course of the day. Drink 2L during the approach. Do the climb with leader carrying a tiny pack (REI Flash 18 is perfect) with maybe 2L water. Follower has slightly bigger back with 3-4L water.

I honestly still don't think this will be enough on that wall at the end of May. It's a furnace up there. Or maybe I'm a wuss and require more water than most people.

Jon H wrote:My recommendation to you - you'll have the best chances of success (and avoiding misery) if you pre-scout the approach and first 3-5 pitches. Better yet would be to hike in the previous evening to camp at the base.

I don't think camping is necessary. The approach takes only 30-45 minutes if you know the way. And since the descent trail doesn't pass by the base of the route (it goes along the floor of the canyon), you'd have to redo the steep part of the approach to grab your camping gear.

Not that I think it's a good idea, but you could night climb it and time it to hit the crux pitch when the sun comes up and you may not have to deal with heal injuries.

Yeah definitely sounds like the experience level of the OP and his team justify upping the ante by adding darkness to the ascent.

5.samadhi wrote:Yeah definitely sounds like the experience level of the OP and his team justify upping the ante by adding darkness to the ascent.

Isn't that what we call spicy?.

I've done the route a few times.

- +1 for don't haul
- The first time I did it was in summer, partner and I started and found the base of the route at about 1:00AM with out a ton of trouble in the dark, and averaged about 27 minutes per pitch.
- Start SUPER early, headlamp climbing was very do-able for us
- the 5.11- pitch was a strong 5.11- for me personally
- Good Luck

Eliot Augusto wrote: Isn't that what we call spicy?.

spicy is an adjective experienced climbers use when they onsight a sketchy section. So, no.

As in:

climbing...climbing...climbing sketchy section...

onsighting, onsighting,

finally protecting

• look down at rope waving wildly in the breeze wrapping around an arete*

says "woo that was kinda spicy!"