Moved to NYC, any sport climbing within driving range?

I'm looking for sport climbs, multipitch or not, under ~5.10 or so somewhat close to NYC. I don't have any trad gear/skills. For some reason it seems like there are very few sport routes in the northeast in general. Is there anywhere I can go for a weekend overnight trip (or closer) from NYC that has multiple good sport routes in my range? I moved here from Austin which has TONS of sport routes so I'm surprised to see there isn't much up here.

I'm not in your immediate area - but I would suggest using the RouteFinder mountainproject.com/destina… - Change your location to the NY (Or CT, NJ, PA, RI, etc), Check only Sport, and open the grades wide open, should give you an idea of some of the areas to check out.

Also, try the map here - you can click on each area to bring up a description with a pie chart showing sport/trad/ice/boulder stats. mountainproject.com/scripts…

There's not any good sport nearby, or not very much. The trad scene is pretty strong with the GUNKS and ADK nearby. If you're looking for sport climbing find a good gym, however because you're in NYC they seem to be really crowded... Like wait in line to TR.

get trad gear and go to the gunks. there are some really shitty sport routes in connecticut.

West Point is your only option
mountainproject.com/v/west-…

If you want someone to show you around the Gunks hmu - if you get into trad find a mentor, get a guide, beware of the loose stuff.

I remember a pretty decent sport crag just outside of Elmira in the Adirondacks. You had to cross private land to get there, but the owner was fine with that. Maybe find a local who can show you around. Rumney is great for sport, but it is a bit of a haul, but doable in a loooong day trip.

Birdsboro PA is around 2 hours. I haven't heard that it's particularly good, but it's something. There's some sport near New Haven, but that's a bit more difficult than your indicated grade range. Gym climbing is obviously the most prevalent and if you avoid the evenings and weekends, it's not that crowded.

For a long weekend, Rumney's 4 hours and you can probably do a ride/gas share with people if you get connected at either the Cliffs at LIC or Brooklyn Boulders

andyelliott wrote:get trad gear and go to the gunks. there are some really shitty sport routes in connecticut.

Thats just like, your opinion, maaaaannnn!!!

Chatfield, Firewall, West Rock all offer some good sport climbing opportunities.

West rock you could get to by Metro North and a cab...

No finer place in the states to learn to trad climb than the Gunks in my opinion.

My first year was spent in the Gunks with 6 cams and a set of nuts. At the time the cost of that gear was less than the cost of gas to travel to someplace like Rumney for a couple weekends. I led maybe a hundred routes with that set-up.

OP: Hey so anyone have any good sport climbing suggestions around NYC?
MP's collective response: "Go climb trad in the gunks"

Funny stuff people...

Seriously though... there is amazing sport climbing all over the North East and it's all accessible from NYC by car just a matter of time in the car Fri evening when others are out drinking, etc. and Chatfield should not be missed if you climb over 5.10. The routes at 5.11 and up are incredible routes so despite what folks have posted here they are a worthwhile trip.

Rumney is a solid 5 hours and more if you hit significant traffic, which you are likely to....but a good place for a sport climber, albeit crowded. Yes CT sport climbing basically sucks, but its totally worth checking out if your stranded on the climbing desert island that is Manhattan (or any other burough). Glad to show you around if you get up for a weekend....my advice is the same as most though, you should learn to trad climb!

Morgan Patterson wrote:OP: Hey so anyone have any good sport climbing suggestions around NYC? MP's collective response: "Go climb trad in the gunks" Funny stuff people...

Well-put. Maybe the proper response should have been:

There is, but comparing the sport +/- 5 hours to NYC to the trad climbing +/- to NYC is like comparing a night in bed with a bloated granny to a night in bed with 10,000 restless virgins...

Get yourself a handful of gear, a car-full of gas, a 6-pack, and hunt down a solid mentor; world-class trad is 90 minutes away from midtown manhattan.

chris_vultaggio wrote: Well-put. Maybe the proper response should have been: There is, but comparing the sport +/- 5 hours to NYC to the trad climbing +/- to NYC is like comparing a night in bed with a bloated granny to a night in bed with 10,000 restless virgins... Get yourself a handful of gear, a car-full of gas, a 6-pack, and hunt down a solid mentor; world-class trad is 90 minutes away from midtown manhattan.

Heh, okay I guess I need to learn to trad climb. There are anchors for rappelling at the gunks though, right? (otherwise I don't see how you would get down without leaving gear). Any recommendations on a minimal'ish set of trad gear, and how to learn?

Check out the partner finder (or meet people at the gym) and see if you can find someone to follow. Easiest way to learn, very little $ commitment.

For sport that's more of a drive - Birdsboro, Mocanaqua, Safe Harbor aren't very far into PA. They're not destinations areas, but I know some people from NYC who venture out to Birdsboro occasionally.

evad wrote: Heh, okay I guess I need to learn to trad climb. There are anchors for rappelling at the gunks though, right? (otherwise I don't see how you would get down without leaving gear). Any recommendations on a minimal'ish set of trad gear, and how to learn?

You can search this or other climbing sites (gunks.com) for "gunks rack".

As for getting down, quite often it is "walking down". Other times yes, there's fixed anchors for rapping.

There's also the Peterskill area for top roping from 5.easy to 5.12. That's sorta like sport climbing...right? :-)

evad wrote: Heh, okay I guess I need to learn to trad climb. There are anchors for rappelling at the gunks though, right? (otherwise I don't see how you would get down without leaving gear). Any recommendations on a minimal'ish set of trad gear, and how to learn?

My starting rack was 0.5 - 2 camalots with doubles in 0.5 and 1 and a set of nuts. If I had to do it again I'd go with a less expensive brand than black diamond.

All of the climbs have walk-offs and there ARE rappel stations but on the busy weekends its often easiest to walk-off. You're doing 3 pitch climbs mostly so you don't have to walk after every pitch.

Personally I never found a mentor or experienced partner...just started slow and worked my way up. But these were the days before internet forums and climbing gyms were really popular.

YO thats enough bashing CT rocks, Ken N's enough,Thank you ! (Power linez) Suffern NY is close to the city. I think that there are bolts & bolted anchors?? (a few bolted routes do exist around the highway exchange: fowl smelling pet food factory area, the still closed but right off the road Transit Athourity and behind the Irish Pub,> Black Irish Boiler Maker. FA(?) M. Siacca Late 80s/90 ( the original Gunkie Mike IMHO),( R U out there brother?) check with the Gravity Vault Climbing Gyms in NJ . also this is a commuter zone with train and bus service to and from NYC. try to hook up a plan Also the top rope action at the Gunks is always great, rain or shine, and people are still happy to share so" go to the Gunks" is good advice for anyone new to the east coast,and/or climbing outdoors.

Rumney is a haul from NYC. Lots of places to hit traffic snarls, especially from NYC on a Friday evening. But it's the best pure sport area in the entire Northeast. I usually make my pilgrimage there once a year. Clipping bolts is a lot of fun!

That said, as others have explained, you really should consider learning trad. I learned at the Gunks and now travel anywhere with confidence in my climbing abilities. Plus the gunks has some stellar routes by any standard. It really would be a shame with all the trad climbers leaving NYC each weekend that you didn't/couldn't catch a ride with them. Plus, as someone new to trad, you'll be following for a bit anyway which will give you time to save up and start accumulating a rack of your own.

You could go to Pennsylvania...

Birdsboro: we have more than 150 bolted lines from 5.3 to 5.14. Some multi pitch lines. It's an old quarry, wear a brain bucket. Plenty of climbing to keep you engaged for a weekend. You can camp at French Creek state park or you can camp (primitive) at the Bird. Don't believe all the crap that's written about this place. most of the people writing have never even been to the bird.

Safe Harbor: Can be Very hot...this is a railroad cut thru and the rock is black. It's great until the weather gets hot. Lots of slabby single pitch climbing.

PM me if you need more information