Lightest toughest rain jacket to carry climbing multipitch?

I second the Arc'teryx FL. No frills protection. Expensive, but in my opinion worth every penny.

What a coincidence...I just got done climbing a longer climb on the north face of Tahquitz a few hours ago while wearing an Outdoor Research Helium II jacket for the first time...I wore it through a squeeze chimney and a couple of off width moves...while I can't vouch for long term wear and tear...im pretty stoked on this jacket...

garbage bag, contractor grade. less than one dollar.

MJMobes wrote:garbage bag, contractor grade. less than one dollar.

Torrentshell. It's my foul weather ski shell, so I've worn it under a pack for many miles. I rarely get rained on here in Idaho, but it has spent lots of time in my pack in the spring and fall. Still looks like new after two + years. Throughly waterproof, not very breathable, but has pit vents. At around $130 retail and under $100 on sail, the price is pretty damn good too.

No, it won't survive a chimney climb, at least not more than once, but show me a hardshell that will.

I second the vote for the OR Helium II. Super lightweight, packs down to nothing, yet has kept me nice and dry during more than one multi day rain Fest. Dries quickly, too.

My ol' Patagonia Dragonfly packs down to the size of a grapefruit. I've thrutched up a number of Lumpy Ridge chimneys in it, and haven't seen any damage. It's water-repellent with a big hood. I renew the water-repellency about every year. It won't stop a frog-strangler, but it'll handle RMNP hit-and-run downpours no problem.

Hope the Torrentshell works out for you.

i like my patagonia torrentshell also. i've used it a pretty decent bit and only got one tiny half inch shred from the chimney at the end of the castleton on the direct route.

Has anyone tried the Patagonia Alpine Houdini yet?

+1 OR Helium. OGL also recommends it too. Sounds exactly what you are looking for - helmet compatible hood, stuffs in pocket, loop to lash to harness... Not uber expensive either.

Or helium

OR has the bet no questions asked warranty in da bizznizzz

Of course certain MPers who do nothing but troll will tell you yr a scammah for using it

Thats what happens when theyre MPing rather than climbing =P

I own and use the helium 1

;)

I put a couple of seasons on a Patagonia M10 that I picked up off of S&C. I loved that jacket until the shoulder straps on my Cilo pack shredded the two seams on the jacket on the front of either shoulder. I sent it back to Patagonia hoping for a repair and instead they sent me back a gift card for slightly more than I bought the jacket for but I can't find another one to replace it with at the same price. I should have just repaired it myself.

I can't justify $400 but at $200 I'd buy another. They are a bit fragile but I put lots of days out in the mountains with mine and thought the wear and tear was reasonable.

I just got the Helium 2 and love it. Super light,compact,clips to harness and super durable for such a lightweight jacket.

I love my Montane Minimus. Especially at 7-8oz.