Can shoes have an impact?

Wow, that original post might have been written by me. I wear Mythos, and climb 5.11's in the gym, getting close to able to complete my first gym 5.12-. I never thought my shoes were a problem until Tenaya was doing demos a week or so ago; I tried a pair of Osais, and it was like night and day. Suddenly my feet felt like they were coated in glue, not only could I stand on tiny things with more confidence, but I could use my toes to pull myself into the wall like I never could in my Mythos!

I don't think I can justify the expense of buying another pair of shoes when my Mythos are still in good shape, but in 6 months or so when I need to replace them I'll definitely be looking at something more aggressive. I'm pretty sure that if I'd kept the Osais on for a full day I'd move up a grade or two on problems where edging and other footwork is key.

Got it Chad! In the 1960s the hardmen regularly climbed 12+ in tennis shoes or barefoot! Oh, and modern sticky climbing shoes did not exist 15 years ago...Glad I am enlightened. I suppose that I did not buy a pair of Asolo Runouts in '90, or Boreal Lazers in '93, or Anasazi Velcros and Mocs in '94 (both of which are still made by the way). That Fires have been around since '81 and EBs since at least '78 must also be just some piece historical fiction. I suggest that you read stories by some of the 60s and 70s hardmen and how the advent of modern footware impacted what became possible. But, no, shoes make no difference or impact at all. Oh, and I started in Fires (first truly sticky rubber), and the performance difference between them and the other shoes I mentioned is huge.

Such a silly thread. Of course shoes make a difference. That said, my friend climbs in pretty mediocre shoes and climbs harder than you despite not being super experienced. He's just a frickin' monkey and makes his style work with the shoes he has. However I like my Solutions... No regrets in getting those. I feel like I am less likely to have foot slips, and given that I've injured a finger due to a foot slip, even more reason to use them for me.

Eliot Augusto wrote:@bradyk: I watched some guy effortlessly saunter halfway up a route in eldo to get some booty, then down climb, in some sandals, all of this was in a route waaaaay to hard for us.

o.k. I'm curious...what climb?

My buddy sends 5.13 in Mythos.

Other shoes may be better on most 5.11 terrain, but it is certainly not your limiting factor. At all.

Cmon man this shit is weak. Why do people respond to such obvious trolling. Uh, I've been climbing 6 months and I'm wondering if the edging shoes that gave me better edging control are better for edging? Why does an average climber need elite level shoes? Probably the same reason they need an elite level training program. They don't but the industry does.

the schmuck wrote:Got it Chad! In the 1960s the hardmen regularly climbed 12+ in tennis shoes or barefoot! Oh, and modern sticky climbing shoes did not exist 15 years ago...Glad I am enlightened. I suppose that I did not buy a pair of Asolo Runouts in '90, or Boreal Lazers in '93, or Anasazi Velcros and Mocs in '94 (both of which are still made by the way). That Fires have been around since '81 and EBs since at least '78 must also be just some piece historical fiction. I suggest that you read stories by some of the 60s and 70s hardmen and how the advent of modern footware impacted what became possible. But, no, shoes make no difference or impact at all. Oh, and I started in Fires (first truly sticky rubber), and the performance difference between them and the other shoes I mentioned is huge.

Clearly you do have it Shmuck, thanks for the history lesson brah. You are truly a master of knowledge. Not that I didn't also have the same Anasazis back in the day, oh and I don't think there was ever mention that sticky rubber shoes didn't exist 15 yrs back. But I digress...

slim wrote: yeah, and if you knew anything about this route you would know that it is a big hands crack out a massive roof - which is a perfect venue for shoes of that period (or cowboy boots for that matter).

I had no idea it was a roof crack btw. I mean with a name like macabre roof, I thought it was a techy slab climb.

yeah, it was pretty obvious that you didn't. glad i could set you straight.

No, it is just the hyperbole of how everyone back in the day climbed 5.12, onsight, with hemp ropes, and used nothing but slung pebbles and gym shoes, and therefore modern equipment (including shoes) is nothing but a marketing gimmick for today's soft weanies. And yes, I realize that a few psychos did climb very hard stuff in in East Germany, barefoot, and using nothing but monkey fists and ring bolts every 10 meters.

I don't get the obsession with NOT getting better shoes because "you don't need them", "people climb harder without them", etc.

Of course technique and all that matters but does anyone seriously think that you would climb the exact same grade in tennis shoes that you would in a pair of climbing shoes? Is buying more precise shoes going to hurt his technique in some way? Should we all train in tennis shoes so we can be real deal hardmen?

At the end of the day, even the most expensive pair of shoes on the market are like $180 tops if you pay full retail. If that breaks the bank for you (or whatever the shoes you want cost does), then don't buy them. If you can afford to drop a hundred bucks on what I imagine is one of your main hobbies/activities, then I don't see why not. That's what money is for: buying shit.

JohnnyG wrote: o.k. I'm curious...what climb?

I'm pretty sure it was wide country, on the Bastille. It was 1-2 routes right of the crack

imagine if someone asked a formula 1 racer if good tires make a difference....

it all makes a difference.

So basically what I gather is that shoes can make a difference, people in the 60s were more badass than anyone pushing limits today, and if I want to be a real man I should climb barefoot or in boots. Is that about right?

Thanks for all the replies.

MC Poopypants wrote:Cmon man this shit is weak. Why do people respond to such obvious trolling. Uh, I've been climbing 6 months and I'm wondering if the edging shoes that gave me better edging control are better for edging? Why does an average climber need elite level shoes? Probably the same reason they need an elite level training program. They don't but the industry does.

Is it really such a difficult concept to grasp that a new climber is wondering if his problems are mental or have a basis in reality? If that is you in the photo with a brand new car and a gated house, then I could understand it being a difficult concept. I thought at first you miight be an older more experienced climber ragging on me for not being a complete badass.

@Eliot, the pic is Justin Bieber, lol.

Pontoon wrote:@Eliot, the pic is Justin Bieber, lol.

I still stand by my statement. I don't think the kid in that photo would grasp that concept. And I pride myself in not recognizing the Bieber.

Locker, Imelda's got nothing on me. I was literally saying today that I need to start throwing out shoes before I buy more then laughed my ass off. Throw out shoes. Seriously though, ChefMattthaner needs some help resoling his katanas that he busted the toes out of.

My bouldering sister just swapped out her evolv electras for some...nagos
*facepalm*

Since it was revived, I thought I'd say that I did end up getting another pair of shoes. And they improved my climbing by a noticeable amount. And, I started learning better technique. Or at least quicker technique

what'd ya get?