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Routes in Southern Pillar - East Side
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(VAR) Indirect Start to FFTMC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Craving for Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Far From The Maddening Crowd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fragmatist, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Loosey Goosey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rowdy Goose, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Where The Wild Goose Goes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 265 ft (80 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Carpenter, Tal Bielefeldt 1965 |
| Page Views: | 1,658 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Jackson on Aug 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
Great as in "large," not as in "fantastic."
This route is listed largely for historical completeness, as it does not (and perhaps should not) get climbed much, other than as easy access to the better climbs adjacent to it.
Both current guidebooks list this route as 5.1, although today's consensus is that it is at least a 5.5 PG/PG13. This is not a suitable beginner's route: it's a dirty, chossy adventure route. Be warned, and be ready to retreat if you get in over your head.
P1: Begin by climbing / scrambling up a loose, dirty gulley filled with blocky bulges, dirty ledges, and loose scrambles. There is pro on either side wall, and there are some trees along the way to sling. Continue up to a tree with some in-situ slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.
The climbing isn't great for the first half of the first pitch, but if it's chimney moves you seek, the second half of the first pitch will not disappoint. Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more good sized trees and gain the main chimney below a large boulder stuck above you in the chimney. Pass under the boulder and continue up using cracks in the back wall and chimney moves. Work your way up through the blocky upper portion to a large ledge on the left. Around the corner is Mrs. Robinson and a host of other decent climbs.
P2: Continue up through the blocky gully to the top. The 2nd pitch gets a bit more overgrown but just a short ways up the pitch are two good climbs on the right wall: Craving For Pink and Hidden Gem.
If you continue straight up P2, be prepared for a very organic experience.
Special Thanks to Andy Weinmann for encouraging a better route description, a warning on the grade, and for calling out the route as not-beginner-safe. (See discussion below.)
This route is listed largely for historical completeness, as it does not (and perhaps should not) get climbed much, other than as easy access to the better climbs adjacent to it.
Both current guidebooks list this route as 5.1, although today's consensus is that it is at least a 5.5 PG/PG13. This is not a suitable beginner's route: it's a dirty, chossy adventure route. Be warned, and be ready to retreat if you get in over your head.
P1: Begin by climbing / scrambling up a loose, dirty gulley filled with blocky bulges, dirty ledges, and loose scrambles. There is pro on either side wall, and there are some trees along the way to sling. Continue up to a tree with some in-situ slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.
The climbing isn't great for the first half of the first pitch, but if it's chimney moves you seek, the second half of the first pitch will not disappoint. Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more good sized trees and gain the main chimney below a large boulder stuck above you in the chimney. Pass under the boulder and continue up using cracks in the back wall and chimney moves. Work your way up through the blocky upper portion to a large ledge on the left. Around the corner is Mrs. Robinson and a host of other decent climbs.
P2: Continue up through the blocky gully to the top. The 2nd pitch gets a bit more overgrown but just a short ways up the pitch are two good climbs on the right wall: Craving For Pink and Hidden Gem.
If you continue straight up P2, be prepared for a very organic experience.
Special Thanks to Andy Weinmann for encouraging a better route description, a warning on the grade, and for calling out the route as not-beginner-safe. (See discussion below.)
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