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Routes in Zeke's Wall
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Cheeky Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Leanne's Ledges S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mortal Coil T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pigs Can Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prelude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ryan's Corner T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Suffering Bagpipes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Eric Hirst, David Harris, June 26, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 3,389 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Hirst on Sep 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Temporary closure on weekdays
Details
6/22/16 Update: Access to the Gold Bar Boulders, Zekes Wall, and Lake Isabel is temporary closed on weekdays to ensure public safety during road work operations for the Dyno timber sale. Access is available Saturday and Sunday. Check back for updates.
While Zekes Wall is on USFS land, access is across State DNR land.
Summer 2016 Notice: Timber contractors with DNR have began operations to improve the road for an upcoming timber harvest 2016-2018. Stay away from all road work sites and timber activities and respect any temporary closures for public safety.
In 2014, WA DNR purchased the Gold Bar bouldering area from Manke Timber. Pedestrian access up the road to access Zekes is permitted. Please remember to never block gates with your car. Display your Discovery Pass and yield and be respectful with DNR staff and contractors when they are on site. WCC, Access Fund and our partners are actively working with DNR on planning and stewardship efforts. Stay posted at washingtonclimbers.org.
While Zekes Wall is on USFS land, access is across State DNR land.
Summer 2016 Notice: Timber contractors with DNR have began operations to improve the road for an upcoming timber harvest 2016-2018. Stay away from all road work sites and timber activities and respect any temporary closures for public safety.
In 2014, WA DNR purchased the Gold Bar bouldering area from Manke Timber. Pedestrian access up the road to access Zekes is permitted. Please remember to never block gates with your car. Display your Discovery Pass and yield and be respectful with DNR staff and contractors when they are on site. WCC, Access Fund and our partners are actively working with DNR on planning and stewardship efforts. Stay posted at washingtonclimbers.org.
Description
Excellent climbing and a great intro to Zeke's wall. Quicker to dry than some of the other Zeke's routes, although there is a drowning risk on p3 during spring runoff. The (seasonally) clean water source at the base and the afternoon shade on the upper pitches make this a good hot weather option.
P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m
Climb the crack to a small roof with a bolt, then continue up intermittent cracks and knobs to a 2-ring anchor. The section above the bolt is intimidating, but accepts excellent gear every 8 feet or so if you can stay calm enough to place it. Save a #4.5 Camalot (or new style #5) to protect the final teetery move.
P2: *** 5.10, gear, 28m
Continue straight up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge with a chain anchor.
P3: 5.10-, 5x + minor gear, 20m
The "unfortunate" pitch. Harder when it's running at 300 CFM, but luckily this only seems to happen during peak snowmelt. From the P2 chains, scramble R to a bolt (the only one visible from the chains), then follow bolts and some greasiness to a comfortable bolted anchor.
P4: *** 5.10, gear, 25m
The dihedral. A touch easier than P2, but keep your wits about you.
P5: **** 5.10-, gear, 20m
Short chimney to giant inverted staircase, with excellent protection throughout. Lead this one, it's a hoot.
DESCENT:
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. When rapping the 4th pitch, be sure to pull the R side of your rope to reduce the likelihood of getting it stuck on the belay flake after the end pops through the rings.
P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m
Climb the crack to a small roof with a bolt, then continue up intermittent cracks and knobs to a 2-ring anchor. The section above the bolt is intimidating, but accepts excellent gear every 8 feet or so if you can stay calm enough to place it. Save a #4.5 Camalot (or new style #5) to protect the final teetery move.
P2: *** 5.10, gear, 28m
Continue straight up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge with a chain anchor.
P3: 5.10-, 5x + minor gear, 20m
The "unfortunate" pitch. Harder when it's running at 300 CFM, but luckily this only seems to happen during peak snowmelt. From the P2 chains, scramble R to a bolt (the only one visible from the chains), then follow bolts and some greasiness to a comfortable bolted anchor.
P4: *** 5.10, gear, 25m
The dihedral. A touch easier than P2, but keep your wits about you.
P5: **** 5.10-, gear, 20m
Short chimney to giant inverted staircase, with excellent protection throughout. Lead this one, it's a hoot.
DESCENT:
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. When rapping the 4th pitch, be sure to pull the R side of your rope to reduce the likelihood of getting it stuck on the belay flake after the end pops through the rings.
Location
Just R of Hanna Deanna (an incredible wet-start 5.11+ splitter through chickenheads) and just L of a prominent waterfall. The waterfall offers a clean drinking water source except during spring runoff, as well as some great rainbows as you climb P2.
Protection
- Single 60m rope.
- Thin cams and small nuts (a blue #6 HB offset is nice to have).
- Double cams from 1/2" to 2" (yellow #2 TCU to gold #2 Camalot).
- Optional blue #3 Camalot
- Single cams from 3.5" to 4.5" (old style #3.5 and #4.5 Camalot, or new style #4 and #5 Camalot).
- Long slings for pitch 5.
- Belay seat suggested, as there are few good ledges. Parties of 3 may wish to have the last person link pitches 1&2, to reduce dangle time.
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