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Anyone tried these shoes yet?

Original Post
Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Hey guys, looking to get a pair of shoes for multi-pitch sport/trad routes with some decent smearing abilities. Up to this point I've been partial to Scarpa see as how I've had the best of luck with them. Anyone try either of these models yet and have feedback?

scarpa.net/en/techno-x.html

scarpa.net/en/helix.html

Xan Calonne · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 61

I have not tried either shoe, but they did get a positive mention over on splitterchoss.

splitterchoss.com/2013/08/0…

They are very briefly mentioned in the 'climbing shoes' section of the report.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

I've used Technos in the past. They edge really well but for real-deal slab smearing, I found them a bit too stiff.

Patrick Nygren · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 20

I've got the Helixes (Helices?). They are pretty average, nothing special about them in any kind of way, except that they happen to fit me such that they are super comfy. Probably just a happy coincidence for my foot shape. If they fit you, great, but they don't offer much beyond that.

sgt.sausage · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Helix were my first climbing shoes ever (bought 2011).

Still have 'em (among others) and on their 3rd resole (I go through 2 pair of soles a year between those and other shoes)

No complaints. They resole quite well. Nothing special in terms of adding to or taking away from climbing ability.

Probably my most comfortable shoes so I'd never geive 'em up

BJ Sbarra · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 671

As Jason said, if smearing is a high priority, I wouldn't go with the Techno X's, they are super stiff. Maybe check out the Vapor V's?

CalStaben · · Louisville, KY · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

Vapor V's are also very stiff. I wouldn't recommend them for a smearing shoe if that's all you're doing. Mine smear just fine, but they're much more of an edging shoe to me.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I like stiff shoes on slabs-at least slabs that have some crystals or edging.

I would love to try out the techno x on long slabby-but easy climbs. My wife has a couple pairs of the old technos and loves them.

You should also check out the Tenaya Ra and Masai shoes, they are more similar to the Anasazi Velcros in stiffness but are much more comfortable for long days on granite.

Matt Maloney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

I recently bought a pair and I really like them. Good in cracks and great edging. They aren't the best for smearing but they are still ok. I have wide feet and it was difficult for me to find shoes comfortable enough for cracks while still having some edging capability. These fit the bill and they actually edge well enough for me to climb 5.10+ sport routes in them. I wear a size 8 street shoe and have a size 40 in these.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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