Climbing in/near Bergamo, Italy?

Ciao!

So life may be sending me to Bergamo in a few months. I've researched the area a bit, but am curious to hear some first-person accounts of climbing there. How's the climbing community in Bergamo itself? Is there a gym or place to train in town? Where's the closest crag/bouldering? What's the best guidebook for the area(s) to the north? Anything else you'd like to add?

The area looks really awesome, and I'm aware of the world-class climbing to the north. Any tips for an Italy first-timer would be much appreciated!

Me and my friends were in arco this past summer and it was amazing. it's about a 2 hour drive from where you will be but well worth it. There are limestone crags everywhere. we only planned on staying for a few days but spent a week we loved it so much. really cool small town with climbing shops all over.

Also if you have time Sperlonga (south of Rome) has an amazing cave right on the beach. drive south from Sperlonga for until there is parking on the side of the right and stairs going down to the beach. the cave is HUGE and there are some amazing routes with stalactites and all that good stuff.

I should add that I'd be living in Bergamo for about a year, so any info about living (as opposed to travelling) in Italy would also be appreciated. Thanks for the info, steven.

There's a series of books called "Culture Shock!" that are great for anyone that's gonna be an expat. I got the German one before I moved there for a year, and it was hugely helpful.

That will be an amazing place to live. I can't speak much of the city itself, but it is within 2 hours or so of Venice, The Dolomites, the coast of Liguria, Lake Como, the list goes on. Very Jealous! Val di Mello, just north east of Lake Como is great climbing and absolutely stunning!

Yeah, I'm looking forward to it. I'm a California native, living in Vietnam for 6 months now. I'm excited about a new location, a new culture, new rock, and new experiences. Based on everything I've heard about the area, it should be a blast.

Thanks to all who have provided info!

Some additional info on the area:

win.versantesud.it/inglese/…

That's the guidebook I've seen to the Bergamo area in a bookstore in Lecco. Looks good.

Lecco has a gob of climbing too.

Spent a couple weeks on the north end of Lake Como climbing and canyoning. Fantastic area I'd visit again in a heartbeat. The Italian/Swiss border is also loaded with great alpine rock too. And, tons of great cragging.

Schweiz plaisir SUD 2011 is another good guidebook that's either out of print or hard to find which has a great selection of routes in the area. Some of the info is also in the Selection guide from the same series.

Val di Mello is a great venue. Not a far drive (especially through the tunnel on the east side of Lake Como) to the Albigna area. Huge amount of climbing.

There's absolutely no climbing in that area and the people know nothing about lifestyle, aesthetics, or food. Oh, wait, Bergamo, ITALY. Strike that. Reverse it. You're moving to, like, that best place on the planet. Where's the jealous button on this site?

Practice driving REALLY REALLY fast

Got the word today that I am for sure going to be living there for about a year. Thanks to those who have contributed their thoughts so far!

Great move, Arco will be your closest major crag....but I know there's tons of climbing north of Bergamo (Como) and probably west as well. You'll also be right near Bergamo airport though and most likely be able to get out to Sardegna, Mallorca, France.....for the weekends! I don't know much about Bergamo itself but probably live just on the outskirts of the center..that way you could walk/bike into the city but still have a car, you'll definitely want a car...for god sakes you can drive to Switzerland in an hour. Sorry I'm jealous too.

climb-europe.com/RockClimbi…

Anyway I'm there 2-3 times a year, I'll look you up for October. Also if you want to visit any vineyards, I'm your guy.

Nick Votto wrote:Great move, Arco will be your closest major crag....but I know there's tons of climbing north of Bergamo (Como) and probably west as well. You'll also be right near Bergamo airport though and most likely be able to get out to Sardegna, Mallorca, France.....for the weekends! I don't know much about Bergamo itself but probably live just on the outskirts of the center..that way you could walk/bike into the city but still have a car, you'll definitely want a car...for god sakes you can drive to Switzerland in an hour. Sorry I'm jealous too. climb-europe.com/RockClimbi… Anyway I'm there 2-3 times a year, I'll look you up for October. Also if you want to visit any vineyards, I'm your guy.

just hit up simone moro. he lives there.

Any thoughts on a recommended rack? I'm thinking a single 70m and 15+ draws for sport...but will bringing a double rack from tiny to fists be overkill? We'd love to get on some long, moderate or harder, single-pitch trad routes over there. Would I be better off going lighter on the pro?

I was just in Finale Ligure last weekend! I hiked from the coast to the northwest towards Finalborgo where Castelo San Giovanni is. Easy hike. Maybe 4 miles tops. The crags are in between Finalborgo and the E80 autostrada. There are some seaside crags that are cast out to the east at Capo Noli. I was able to find a couple crags near the Monte Sordo car park, part of that easy hike I told you about. Beautiful views of the valleys in between the mountains at the top of the moderate hike to Castelo San Giovanni! There are a couple of climbing gear shops in Finalborgo with English-speaking locals that are happy to help. I got an English guidebook for "Finale" at a mountain bike-catering hotel, enroute to Finalborgo from Finale Ligure for 35 euro.

Are you still in Bergamo?

Hey Paul!

Indeed, I am still in Bergamo. I'll be in the area until mid-July.

I haven't been to Finale Ligure yet, but will definitely head that way soon. Sounds awesome! I've seen the guidebook you mentioned in a local bookshop, and will probably pick it up before we head down.

I'd love to hook up with you! Let's stay in touch!

Absolutely, Paul. Feel free to send me a PM whenever. I'll definitely respond more quickly that way: mountainproject.com/scripts…

So here's a little Italia update.....I went to Val Masino last week and hooooly shit. They call it little Yosemite but its more like little Patagonia and Yosemite. Amazing alpine ice (at least last week), incredible huge alpine rock routes, awesome sport climbing, splitter cracks and more great bouldering than you could imagine...all on bomber granite.
I highly recommend it, it was pretty empty last week but I think the summer's probably quite a bit more crowded. I'm going back in June if anyone's around.

Hey Nick,

Send me a PM in June. It would be awesome to get together and get some pitches in.

Cheers,

Ryan

Nick Votto wrote:So here's a little Italia update.....I went to Val Masino last week and hooooly shit. They call it little Yosemite but its more like little Patagonia and Yosemite. Amazing alpine ice (at least last week), incredible huge alpine rock routes, awesome sport climbing, splitter cracks and more great bouldering than you could imagine...all on bomber granite. I highly recommend it, it was pretty empty last week but I think the summer's probably quite a bit more crowded. I'm going back in June if anyone's around.