Anyone tried these shoes yet?
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Hey guys, looking to get a pair of shoes for multi-pitch sport/trad routes with some decent smearing abilities. Up to this point I've been partial to Scarpa see as how I've had the best of luck with them. Anyone try either of these models yet and have feedback? |
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I have not tried either shoe, but they did get a positive mention over on splitterchoss. |
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I've used Technos in the past. They edge really well but for real-deal slab smearing, I found them a bit too stiff. |
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I've got the Helixes (Helices?). They are pretty average, nothing special about them in any kind of way, except that they happen to fit me such that they are super comfy. Probably just a happy coincidence for my foot shape. If they fit you, great, but they don't offer much beyond that. |
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Helix were my first climbing shoes ever (bought 2011). |
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As Jason said, if smearing is a high priority, I wouldn't go with the Techno X's, they are super stiff. Maybe check out the Vapor V's? |
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Vapor V's are also very stiff. I wouldn't recommend them for a smearing shoe if that's all you're doing. Mine smear just fine, but they're much more of an edging shoe to me. |
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I like stiff shoes on slabs-at least slabs that have some crystals or edging. |
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I recently bought a pair and I really like them. Good in cracks and great edging. They aren't the best for smearing but they are still ok. I have wide feet and it was difficult for me to find shoes comfortable enough for cracks while still having some edging capability. These fit the bill and they actually edge well enough for me to climb 5.10+ sport routes in them. I wear a size 8 street shoe and have a size 40 in these. |