The business of training
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I've heard a lot of the arguements for training. I agree with a few points but it mostly sounds like a consumer religon. They make sense yet lack any real substance when taking reality into consideration. |
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is it true that 5.12 is better than 5.10? Is one's life is better if they climb higher numbers? |
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I enjoy doing routes in the mountains, the easy to moderate routes 5.9/5.10 tend to be crowded as that is what most weekend warriors can climb without dedicating themselves to training. Training allows me to go climb more secluded routes in the mountains and to get on the harder always open lines at the crag. I get to climb more routes and stand around waiting less. Training allows me to do this. |
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David Sahalie wrote: is it true that 5.12 is better than 5.10? Is one's life is better if they climb higher numbers?Yes, and yes. |
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Jake Jones got the right answer. Everyone else...better luck next time. |
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Jake Jones wrote:I recently discovered training doesn't involve trains. You can imagine my relief.it does so involve trains... quit being a such a bitch :) youtube.com/watch?v=hP00VmK… |
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Hahaha. The training industry! You're talking about 4 or 5 people making an ok wage doing just that. The rest are usually gym lackies or starved pros doing a clinic tour. |
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You can utterly suck at most activities and enjoy them. Climbing is special because you can utterly suck and still travel the world and enjoy it. |
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Ryan Palo wrote:Hahaha. The training industry! You're talking about 4 or 5 people making an ok wage doing just that. The rest are usually gym lackies or starved pros doing a clinic tour. Climbing 5.10 well is actually pretty great, but climbing it well usually means the ability to climb much harder. I will say harder routes tend to ascend better features and have more interesting movement. Being a solid 5.11 climber with the ability to dog your way through most 5.12-s where it's at. You can climb most long routes and pull through sections if you get stumped. It's fun to chase grades( at least it is for me ), but what really motivates me is climbing cool routes. It just so happens that most of the BA routes in my home area are in the 12 range. If it was Rifle Id say the 12+/13, the Red 12, Josh 10, etc. If climbing striking features is what makes you happy, train, and work your technique till you're at the appropriate level. Otherwise, just open the guide book and continue to slop your way up any ole 5.10. And dont waste your money on any type of gadget besides a partner with a good eye (for technique) and a hangboard.I'd agree with most of that. I'm a strength and conditioning coach, and most of the stuff I see online and in books regarding training is not particularly impressive. Technique will always be more important, but I think nearly any climber can improve their fitness whether it be strength, power, mobility, balance, weightloss, etc. There are plenty of people out there who could structure a really good program for climbers, but it appears to be a hard market to tap into, many of the climbing gyms I've seen don't have the appropriate space or equipment for a good group class. I agree that an individual doesn't need much to train for climbing. |
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The key question for a business of training for climbers is not whether climbing harder is worthwhile, not whether some people would get better much faster and safer with a training program ... but rather |
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If you tend to fall a lot, you should train and climb 5.12. So you don't break your ankles. |
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phildenigris wrote: Technique will always be more important, .Footwork and efficiency will help right up to about 12-. After that, you need to pull harder and longer with less rests. |
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MC Poopypants wrote:is it true that 5.12 is better than 5.10? Is one's life is better if they climb higher numbers?I seriously think my life has improved now that i climb harder than i used to. i spend a lot of my time climbing, thinking about climbing, and training for routes that i literally feel happier after i climb a hard route (not that my projects are really considered "hard" anyway lol) |
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What is this "training industry?" |
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The trolling powers are strong with this one. |
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: You can utterly suck at most activities and enjoy them. Yep. But it is better to not suck. |