Is Clipping into Rappel Rings an acceptable practice?

Ryan Kempf wrote: Someone had to be a douche bag! Ryte?

He did spell it wrong.

Per Locker: YER GONNA DIE!!!

Matt N wrote: He did spell it wrong. Per Locker: YER GONNA DIE!!!

All Locker impersonations are not accepted nor refundable. The fumes el get ya!

Matt N wrote: Not according to sportos on MP - rap rings are for lowering through. Multipage thread on rap-backups that drifted into that debate. :D

It's true. The term "rap ring" is just a relic of ancient times. It's just confusing to all the young 'uns (and some of us not-so-young 'uns).

Yes, it is fine.

Out of all the posts you decided to delete...you have to delete Angelina

And btw, Ryan is sprayer

What your gonna want to do is get some 40 weight oil and some ball bearings.

This annoyed me. Especially since there are monster huge quicklinks you could attach to easily. Rapped off the rings on the bolts instead, so the rope had to pass through the chains too, and the bolts were pretty far apart, so not ideal way to load them.
2 slings girthed together to a quickdraw to a sling to lockers on the rap chain.
Also he's belaying off his waist.
Also when his customer got to that ledge he just untied his 8 on a bight while he pulled up the 2nd climber on that rope. customer stood there, not tied in to anything.
Also that 8 on a bight on the quickdraw was his only protection until 1 second before that pic was taken, he put the slings to the other quickdraw just then, while his customer was climbing, and he was belaying off his waist.
bigger pic: i.imgur.com/pTfUdgI.jpg

gtluke wrote:This annoyed me. Especially since there are monster huge quicklinks you could attach to easily. Rapped off the rings on the bolts instead, so the rope had to pass through the chains too, and the bolts were pretty far apart, so not ideal way to load them. 2 slings girthed together to a quickdraw to a sling to lockers on the rap chain. Also he's belaying off his waist. Also when his customer got to that ledge he just untied his 8 on a bight while he pulled up the 2nd climber on that rope. customer stood there, not tied in to anything. Also that 8 on a bight on the quickdraw was his only protection until 1 second before that pic was taken, he put the slings to the other quickdraw just then, while his customer was climbing, and he was belaying off his waist. bigger pic: i.imgur.com/pTfUdgI.jpg

At the risk of thread drift, what specifically do you mean by "customer"? Do you believe this was a guide and client? If so, that's pretty disturbing...

90% sure he was a guide. Not sure if he was legal or not since guiding at the gunks is rather limited. The 2 guys he was with had never been climbing before and had day passes and he was doing everything for them.

I always clip in to the other party's harness, too. It's a great way to meet new people.

gtluke wrote:This annoyed me. Especially since there are monster huge quicklinks you could attach to easily. Rapped off the rings on the bolts instead, so the rope had to pass through the chains too, and the bolts were pretty far apart, so not ideal way to load them.

Yes, the guys setup isn't ideal by any means and certainly gets a thumbs down for the most part. To be honest though, your setup might have had a hand in his poor rig too. (The Single Fixe Ring Anchors also contribute as they're almost always "crowded" due to their design). You've taken up a lot of anchor real estate in ways that don't allow the other guy to share easily. While it looks like you were there first and don't really HAVE to accommodate sharing the anchor, at places like the Gunks or other areas with "common anchors", rigging with the midset that't you'll likely share the bolts is good form AND saves you a lot of headaches. When the other party comes up I typically TELL them where they can clip so we can both live in peace.

If I'd come up to that anchor as a second party, I'd be polite and work with you BUT I'd be thinking a bit of WTF? on the cordalette THREADED through the Fixe Rings. Those are the best "sharing" clip in points and by putting your cord through there, I'd be more hesitant to stack my biner on top. I'd also probably ask you to move the "Backup" clove hitched rope to the other bolt.

Monday Quarterbacking (assuming the other bolt is a mirror of what I see)

- You should clip biners into the LEFT Fixe ring and RIGHT, upper, LARGE QL. Use those to attach your Cordalette Legs. Rig so that the longer chain is UNDER your legs. This gives you one "Factory" clip in point and leaves the chain free to be threaded and loaded for Rap with minimal interference to you rig. Throw your clove hitched rope biner onto the LEFT QL.
- This leaves the party on the right able to clip into the RIGHT Fixe ring and Left upper QL (shared with your clove hitched rope which is likely NOT loaded and can me relocated ABOVE their anchor biner)