Cams for LCC (Little Cottonwood Canyon)

I'm building my first trad rack. I live near LCC so I'm planning on climbing there the most. From what I've read, including other posts on this site, BD from .3-3 is basically the standard starting place. I'm planning on getting that, but what doubles should I get? or should I get anything outside of that range first/also?

c3's can be clutch. every now and then a 4.

Michael, keep in mind I have limited trad experience but from talking to people and reading the X4s pretty much replace the C3s (a little wider head but stronger and more versatile). Any specific reason to get C3s rather than just X4s in any given size range?

Do you have friends with racks? if so climb with them and you will get to try different pieces of gear. I Really like my BD Cams but also augment one set of BD cams with another set of Metolius or Wild Country Cams they have slightly different fits and compliment each other really well.

Scott J wrote:Michael, keep in mind I have limited trad experience but from talking to people and reading the X4s pretty much replace the C3s (a little wider head but stronger and more versatile). Any specific reason to get C3s rather than just X4s in any given size range?

Actually C3's are stronger, the red (#1) C3 is rated to 10KN while the .75 x4 is rated to 9KN. Funny how a piece much smaller is "technically" stronger. I like both C3's and x4's, I don't really climb in LLC so I guess one may be more beneficial than the other. Have fun and be safe!

Do you have friends with racks? if so climb with them and you will get to try different pieces of gear. quote>

Best advice you'll find. No need to buy your own just starting out. I think I climbed for at least a few years on partner's gear before I sacked up and bought my own. I did however buy a rope so I could contribute....my rope/your rack.

That being said, if you do buy, C4s from .5-3 with doubles in the .5-1. I love the TCUs for finger sized stuff, don't really like the C3s.

C-3's are great, but only a few sizes are rated for lead climbing.

Were I authoring a new trad rack?

C-3 #1
C-3 #2
X/C-4 #.4
X/C-4 #.5
C-4 #.75
C-4 #1
C-4 #2
C-4 #3

Optional and doubles
C-4 #4 (if you like to climb offwidth)
Omega Pacific Link Cam #.75 or #1 (backs up most key sizes)
or C-4 #.75 & #1

My 2 cents. LCC is awesome, I'm jealous!

all sizes but the 000 (black) c3 are rated for lead climbing. they are narrower and fit in small placements far better than x4's. ill never totally replace my c3s with x4s.

avoid the link cams too. expensive, and I have one that mostly just sits in my closet.

I live in Sandy and have a full rack of Camalots (from .5) and a full rack of WC Friends. You're welcome to borrow either sets to go climb on and see what you think. PM me here if you want to take m up on it.

I climb in LCC a lot. This is what I would start with:

.75-4 C4 - The #4 comes in handy on a lot of the easier routes in little
.1-.5 X4
small offset nuts for the pin scars

doubles in .3-2 can be pretty handy. I like to carry a full set of x4s and doubles in c4s when I need more gear.

There are occasions when the C3s fit better but its typically not a huge issue. Find nut placements in stuff that small when possible.

+1 on the offsets. Best purchase I've made all year!

I like the .5 C4 rather than x4. Better holding power.

Dmm peanuts are awesome.

Ime guys swear by metolious nuts for lcc.

Haven't played with wc heliums. Look awesome. Balanced, long stem. Also like how much overlap in size. Feel like I would be more inclined to take one set if I had 6 sizes rather than the 5 bd (bigger sizes .5-3).

A lot of good info from everyone. Can't go wrong.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Looks like I'll just have to get the basics and just get out there and climb. Thanks for the heads up on the C3s and offsets, they weren't even on my radar.

Considering the OP Link Cam. I think it depends on your climbing style, as to weather you'll enjoy and use a Link. For me, not many cams gets doubled up on my rack, and the Link covers several sizes. Plus, when I'm desperate for a placement, the Link's broad range makes it so much easier to get secure. Sure they are expensive and heavy, but weigh that against what the 2-3 cams would cost and weigh to replace it. In a place like Indian Creek, where 5-10 of one size are needed for most leads, the versatile Links are viable on a broader range of crack sizes. All broad range protection have a design compromise to achieve their expanded range.

Offset nuts and cams work great in LCC. I would rather have them than regular ones for most of LCC. For BCC whatever you have will work. I have C3's and never bring them. Not a fan of them or link cams. With a set of master cams and offset mastercams I have never done a route I wish I had C3s on. Even on aid routes in these canyons I don't use them that often. YMMV. Now Totem Cams, I wish I had a set. (Nate if you read this let me borrow yours already!)

Metolius make great gear. If BD hadn't introduced the X-4's, I'd own Master Cams instead.

As others have stated... and I'd like to re-emphasize...

What does your climbing partner rack with? or partners?

This seems vastly more important than what we here on the internet think. You'll want to be comfortable leading with your partners rack, while having a rack your partner welcomes too. This can make or break a multipitch partnership if you are picky.

Also, look to add some unique gear later on that can fill in any gaps in your partners rack.

That makes a lot of sense Craig. My buddy and I are actually buying our racks together so this info is going into both of our stuff.