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Need a climbing guide for Arches National Park for a group of beginners

Original Post
matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

I've looked at a couple outfitters, and most are a bit too expensive for us. We are looking for someone with gear to show us some basics (set up top rope and show us how) for about 4-8ppl for a couple hundred bucks for a half day, if possible. You need to be experienced, but not necessarily certified and all that..

kboofis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 20

This will be hard to find because people who aren't certified probably aren't going to have any permits for the area. Taking cash for a 'climbing trip' can land people in legal trouble

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Just curious. Why Arches?

matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Gotcha, didn't know about the need for permits. So all climbers need permits, or just guides?

matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Arches because we are passing through the area, looks nice in the pictures, is considered pretty good for beginners from what I've read...

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Arches is not the best for beginners. Just get a local guide. Likely, they will take you to wall street or ice cream parlor.

TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

If you are paying someone to give you climbing instruction, they legally have to have a permit for wherever they're instructing(guiding). A permit is required for any commercial activity (exchange of money = commercial). To get a permit for guided climbing in a national park, they have to hold the proper certifications and have commercial liability insurance.

Where are you headed? If you can make it out to the Denver area you can probably find a cheaper rate.

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Get a hold of Larry at Moab Desert Adventures. The National Park Permits are a PITA . The Climbing in Arches is not really beginner friendly and the concentration of quality climbing in one area is almost non existent.

BobGray · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 711

Arches is definitely not a good place for groups or beginners. I'd try Potash Road (Wall Street in the guide book)only a few minutes away from the entrance to Arches. Tons of easier routes, zero approach and great for beginners. Ask around some of the local climbing shops to find a guide maybe? Good luck, climb safe.

mountainproject.com/v/potas…
mountainproject.com/v/wall-…

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Let me make a clarification. Permits are needed for outfitters/guides on publicly managed land whether it be federal (nation park, forest service, blm, etc). The same for state and local lands. The only way to get around these rules are for what are typically called "common adventure" programs. Really clubs, that may have a leader but they are not paid or compensated in any form (not even free beers and dinner).

As such, for what the OP is asking if you want to do anything around the Moab area you are going to be hiring an outfitter/guide who can legally operate on any of the lands (including the Potash road) as they are BLM, National Park, or SITLA (state trust).

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

A guide service should be used if you want any type of formal climbing instruction. A guide services will not only provide all the gear and transportation, but they will ensure that your group learns the appropriate skills, keeping everyone as safe as possible, and educating all about the fragile desert environment.

Indeed, anyone teaching/guiding on public lands must have a guide permit.

I don't think the cost of hiring a guide service is very high. Around Moab you typically pay less than $100 per person for a solid 4 hours of quality instruction.
(I pay more per hour for the professional at the car service.......and I don't even like to be there.......)

Of course, as a professional climber and guide in Moab I strongly discourage anyone to hire a random person for climbing instruction. Not only is it illegal but you have no idea what you are getting and you may put your group at great risk.

Mia
Moab Cliffs and Canyons

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

dang I'd think some dirtbag in Moab would step up and hang some TRs for them.

maybe try and offer multiple cases of out of state beer?

Tug · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

What MJ said. Get some 6 point beers and head to wall st.

-1 for hiring Larry or Mia. Larry can't climb shit and Mia... Well I did hear she gives happy endings.

You get what you pay for I guess.

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

^^^^^^^^^

Very classy Tug!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Tug wrote:What MJ said. Get some 6 point beers and head to wall st. -1 for hiring Larry or Mia. Larry can't climb shit and Mia... Well I did hear she gives happy endings. You get what you pay for I guess.
Lotta class, Tug. Sounds like something a teenager would say.
Tug · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

Geez guys. Harden the fuck up. I was just joking. Mia does not give happy endings.

leon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

If she did she would charge a lot more...i guess.

Gaar · · Springdale / Zion UT / Moab · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,483

I'm going to say it because no-one else has!... TECHNICAL GUIDING FOR ANYONE (outfitter or private) IN ARCHES IS CLOSED AND ILLEGAL. Just to get that out there..

If you can't remember why; ask Dean Potter

herb crimp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 235

It is worth noting that if you hire a guide to climb in the park, you are breaking park regs. Via the new management plan, guided climbing or canyoneering trips are not allowed in Arches. Actually, guided rock climbing has been prohibited since at least the late '90s.

If you find a 'guide' maybe you can get them to take your group of 8 up something classic like the Mars Hotel or Jello Tower!

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

This one brought all the talent out. A who's who of Moab's climbing guides.
Herb how the Hell are you?

Oh and Matt H, pirate and possible future Felon, the BLM and the rest of us are watching.

Do people troll the web for cut rate scuba or ski diving instruction?

matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Wow, lot's of interesting info here! Unfortunately when you travel with a group plans can change quickly -- we'll be passing through the place, but won't have a chance to stop and climb. Thanks for all the advice.

Can anyone recommend a good beginner spot near LA? That's where we're headed. Or should I post in another thread?

Also, assuming we manage to learn the basics prior to this trip, are there places that rent climbing gear?

Thanks guys & girls.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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