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climbing Devil's Tower in July- too hot or okay?

Original Post
Jason Albino · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 180

I'm heading through Wyoming in July and would love to climb in Devil's Tower. Will I roast and be miserable or possible to chase shade and be okay?

Thanks in advance for tips!

Jeff McLeod · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 45

I did a trip to the tower in July last year...it was hot as balls, but some really stellar routes stay shaded all day so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding stuff to do. Don't do El Matador in the afternoon though. Definitely can't recommend that. Felt like I was in an oven in that box stem

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The tower is a big sundial, so chasing shade can be an option if you are fast. The approaches on different faces are distinct and not completely trivial though, so there can be quite a bit of effort involved. If it is really hot, you can always go to the Needles and find shade/altitude there.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Start early and you will be fine. If going for the Durance try to be climbing by 7. Cool and enjoyable then. Lots of great single pitch stuff goes into the shade in the afternoon.

mt.wilson · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

Just chase the shade you'll be fine. We went in sept and it was hot 85 deg just moved from nw to ne throughout the day. The approaches are pretty damn easy and the routes are amazing!

Jason Albino · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 180

Thanks folks!! We're adding it to our summer trip itinerary!

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

And don't forget to hit up the limestone sport climbing in Spearfish Canyon. It's just an hour away from Devil's Tower and on the way to The Needles.

Jason Albino · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 180

Thanks Brent, it's actually on our list now and I'm really looking forward to it!!!

See my post here for our draft itinerary:
mountainproject.com/v/summe…

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

Nice! Shoot me a mountain project alert if you need someone to climb with when you plan to climb in rapid city and spearfish

harrison t · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 871

Start on the west face of the tower and make your way around to the north face as the sun comes around. Good routes in the 5.9 - 5.10- range...(mccarthy west, tulgey wood, new wave, assembly line, and a lot of the first pitches to the classic 5.11s on the tower are all in the .10- range)
If going for Durrance, start early and move fast to avoid crowds and heat.
Most likely the falcon closures for certain routes will be lifted by the time of your visit, but make sure you check at the kiosk to avoid a hefty fine.

Regarding your itinerary link -
There are plenty of places to chase shade in spear canyon and custer state park to climb world class stone and really great camping.
Devils tower is on the way when heading to Tensleep from Spearfish/Needles area, so unless you want to back track east, you may want to stop at the tower before heading to ten sleep.

Have a good trip

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

July at the Tower can be tough. Yes, like a sun dial is the Tower. But in July middle of the day the dam sun is pretty much directly over the tower - making all aspects very close to or in the sun. Maybe an approach would be early morning climbs on the north and west side, take a mid day break, and if you still had guns then later afternoon climbs on the northeast side.

Much easier to chase shade at the tower on Memorial day and Labor day weekends, when the sun is lower on the horizon.

The tower is a special place!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Get up early and do a few routes then take a break from noon-5, then do a few more routes after the heat breaks and shadows are long again. You'll be fine.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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