Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches
FA: Pete Gallagher and Bego Gerhart '88
Page Views: 3,522 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 24, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route climbs the South Gossip via a crack system on the right side of the west face. Like many of the routes in Arches, the start is soft, sandy, and spooky. Unlike many of the routes in Arches, the rock on the rest of this climb is mostly excellent and almost feels like wingate in places.

Pitch 1 – Climb through the soft rock either in a right facing corner or to the right of the corner. You’re aiming for a wide crack which is followed to a comfortable belay ledge. Belay from a fixed anchor. A variation climbs the thin crack to the right at 5.11d to the same belay. 5.11 or 5.10, C1 (It may even be 5.9 but the start is hard to rate)

Pitch 2 – Step right around a pillar and follow a beautiful crack up an acute dihedral to the base of the summit block. Belay from a fixed anchor on a ledge. 5.11 or 5.9, C1

Pitch 3 - A couple interesting free moves access a bolt ladder which leads to the top. C1

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Protection Suggest change

Two sets of Camalots including at least one #5 and #6
Runners plus a screamer or two
Aid gear for the third pitch

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