Be There or Be Talked About
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C1
Avg: 3.1 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches |
FA: | Pete Gallagher and Bego Gerhart '88 |
Page Views: | 3,522 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on May 24, 2007 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route climbs the South Gossip via a crack system on the right side of the west face. Like many of the routes in Arches, the start is soft, sandy, and spooky. Unlike many of the routes in Arches, the rock on the rest of this climb is mostly excellent and almost feels like wingate in places.
Pitch 1 Climb through the soft rock either in a right facing corner or to the right of the corner. Youre aiming for a wide crack which is followed to a comfortable belay ledge. Belay from a fixed anchor. A variation climbs the thin crack to the right at 5.11d to the same belay. 5.11 or 5.10, C1 (It may even be 5.9 but the start is hard to rate)
Pitch 2 Step right around a pillar and follow a beautiful crack up an acute dihedral to the base of the summit block. Belay from a fixed anchor on a ledge. 5.11 or 5.9, C1
Pitch 3 - A couple interesting free moves access a bolt ladder which leads to the top. C1
Rappel the Route
Pitch 1 Climb through the soft rock either in a right facing corner or to the right of the corner. Youre aiming for a wide crack which is followed to a comfortable belay ledge. Belay from a fixed anchor. A variation climbs the thin crack to the right at 5.11d to the same belay. 5.11 or 5.10, C1 (It may even be 5.9 but the start is hard to rate)
Pitch 2 Step right around a pillar and follow a beautiful crack up an acute dihedral to the base of the summit block. Belay from a fixed anchor on a ledge. 5.11 or 5.9, C1
Pitch 3 - A couple interesting free moves access a bolt ladder which leads to the top. C1
Rappel the Route
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