Vedauwoo - Walt's Wall
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Hello all, |
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As a general rule of thumb at the Voo you typically encounter some OW on almost every route. As a beginner leader you may want to supplement your rack with a #4 and a #5. |
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Ed's crack is awesome, but you'll want to save your #3 for the top. Both the midway and top will require you to build anchors as well. The rack you have will do you just fine on that route though. The voo is a great place for passive pro. If it's crowded (Ed's is one of the few places at the voo you might have to wait for a party) you could jump over to the clamshell and do the sport routes there (5.5, 5.7, 5.9). Beehive buttress is also a nice place to spend a day for moderate sport climbing. |
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The good news is gear placements there are straightforward so since you are new to placing gear you shouldn't have to much trouble. However, as was previously stated, the ratings can feel hard if you aren't an offwidth aficionado. There are routes that dont require offwidth techniques but you can't go the Vedauwoo and not at least get a taste. |
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Im assuming youre looking for routes through 5.5 maybe up to 5.6. A short way to the left of Walts Wall Route is Foolishness, a splendid 2-pitch 5.4 (some may argue that the short offwidth section is 5.6). A #5 Camalot protects the offwidth. The old bolt on the exit has been replaced. Easy Jam (5..4) on the northwest side of Nautilus is a nice first climb for Vedauwoo wide cracks as well as Hide-Away-Chimney (5.5) on Holy Saturday. A nice learning crack is Glenns First Name (5.4) on Glen Dome. On Blair III the Notch Climbs (5.4 to 5.6) are good for learning to place gear. Once past these, the grainy climbs Amaranth, Barley, etc. (5.6 to 5.7+) on Plumb Line Crag are similarly good climbs for learning about cracks and placing gear. |
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As a beginner, you may feel a little short of gear if you have only a single set of cams and stoppers, but that is relative to your skill level. It's a good point that probably three of your pieces will be used for the anchor midway. |
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Thank you all very much for your replies! They all seem like feasible options within my comfort/skill level. I'll have to do a little more research on nautilus, but no matter where we end up it's going to be amazing and fun doing some real crack climbing! |
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RichieRich wrote:Thank you all very much for your replies! They all seem like feasible options within my comfort/skill level. I'll have to do a little more research on nautilus, but no matter where we end up it's going to be amazing and fun doing some real crack climbing!Have fun! You will be amazed by Vedauwoo. Don't forget the sports tape (search youtube for hand taping techniquies), knee pads, and mosquito repellant. Also, realize that Vedauwoo is on a divide and creates orographic weather...a few pufffy cumulus moving in from the west mushroom into spectacular storms. And listen to Rob, he wrote the best guide books for Vedauwoo: 'Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo' amazon.com/Heel-Toe-Greater… & 'Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo' amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Ve… |
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RichieRich wrote:Hello all, I finally learned to lead trad this past weekend, and feel pretty comfortable on 5.4 and 5.5 at RRG. My girlfriend and I will be spending a weekday in Vedauwoo in early June, and we were hoping to get in a couple of climbs. Walt's Wall seems that it would be perfect being an easier multi-pitch and fixed belays. My rack is pretty sparse, so I was wondering what pro would be necessary for this route (I'm open to other routes as well)? I am planning to purchase some more gear before our trip, and I currently have C4: .5-3, and BD stoppers 4-13. Also, if Walt's Wall is too busy, as I don't want to feel rushed or piss off others for taking my sweet ass time (which I will need), we were thinking on heading to beehive buttress to do some sport... any thoughts? Thank you ahead of time!I spend a lot of time at the Voo learning trad. Walt's Wall: Ed-s: classic two pitch, fun offwidth (easy) finish, with several slabby variations. Belays on gear. First pitch has a very commiting R+ move where you mustn't fall, but it's over soon. Foolishness: 3 pitches to left of Ed's, takes zig zag path up formation. First pitch has awkward mantle, and a harder than you think offwidth. My fist trad multipitch. Walt's Route: 3 pitches, first pitch is probably best beginner lead on the wall, the following two are mostly slabby traverses. On busy days, expect people rapping past you. This is the popular descent rap for the entire wall. All of these routes can be done with nothing bigger than a #4 cam. (Locals will do ed's with all stoppers, or even run out p1 with only one piece). Walt's is a great spot, but I would also reccommend Poland Hill, and Crystal Freeway areas. Both have classics, and are much less busy than the Nautilus which is always flooded. If you do go to Poland HIll, be sure to Top Rope Fantasia, and experience the humbling Vedauwoo 5.9 |
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Derek Wehrle wrote:...Both have classics, and are much less busy than the Nautilus which is always flooded.Flooding is the least of your worries on the Nautilus. |
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Walt's Wall is a good beginner lead, in fact it was my first lead on gear. With that said, you may run into people rapping down the rout as is mentioned above, and if this is your grade the upper slab might leave you less than psyched. |