New Salt Lake Training Area
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Will S wrote:I'm envious, would love to have a systems board like that available to me...both as a climber and as a trainer of others, as well as that "every t-nut filled" 45, that thing is sick and seems ideal for trying to come up with 1-2 move limit level power bouldering stuff for a variety of people during a session. Nice work there, gotta be satisfying seeing the plans come to life.honestly system boards are way overrated. |
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I've been enjoying the 45, although it seems that every third hold I hit has spun, probably due to the slick texture on the wall...maybe you guys could crank down on those t nuts a bit? |
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Sorry to hear you are getting spinners, we still need to name all the holds and then we can add a set-screw to them. We are processing feedback about the type of holds people want to train on. The plan is to keep them locked in place for 1-year, then reset. |
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Works for me, thanks for the response! |
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5.samadhi wrote: honestly system boards are way overrated.Agreed, the hold configuration and hold types of systems boards reduce their usefulness. A "woody" that is adjustable angle, and filled with a large variety of finger strength dependent holds and mirrored right/left can be very useful, I think this is sometimes referred to as a systems board, although it is not. |
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Brendan - I'm sure that a lot of thought went in to everything, and I know nothing about putting a gym together, but the anchors on the lead routes are miserable. They're hard enough to clip by themselves, but in their current configuration (opposite and opposed and with very little room to maneuver either one of them), clipping them takes way more effort and energy than it ought to. It might not be a problem at the Sandy Momentum, but at Millcreek, where I'm pumped at the top of every route, it makes the routes less fun. Anyway - that's my two cents. I love the gym and the setting, just hate the anchors. |
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^^^^^ That guy is a wuss. He needs to get stronger and quit bitching. |
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Skip anchor clip, victory whip? |
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JCM wrote:Skip anchor clip, victory whip?I like it. The walls are so overhung that my belayer can't see me and I'll always be able to claim I got the send and then took a whip for fun! |
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I have to agree about the top anchors, and all the people I've climbed with there feel the same way. They are very annoying, difficult to clip even if you aren't pumped....The ones at the Sandy Momentum (or most other gyms I've been to) are much nicer. Other than that, the gym rocks. Except, its way too steep for my fat arse... |
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Overall, this gym is great- highlights: Colored holds for routes, great setting, nice padding, excellent training. |
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just down climb before you drop off. I'm With You Man I would not want to repeatedly drop off the highest point. |
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Yes I down climb everything but it would be nice to have a project or two. And I am female- :) |
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Brown downclimbing holds are being added to the bouldering area as it gets reset. These holds (rings) let you downclimb from the top of the wall (15'6") to about 12' above the pads. They are spaced out to allow downclimbing off of every problem. |
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The first video in our Introduction to Training Series has been posted: |