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New Salt Lake Training Area

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Will S wrote:I'm envious, would love to have a systems board like that available to me...both as a climber and as a trainer of others, as well as that "every t-nut filled" 45, that thing is sick and seems ideal for trying to come up with 1-2 move limit level power bouldering stuff for a variety of people during a session. Nice work there, gotta be satisfying seeing the plans come to life.
honestly system boards are way overrated.
Jack Maberry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

I've been enjoying the 45, although it seems that every third hold I hit has spun, probably due to the slick texture on the wall...maybe you guys could crank down on those t nuts a bit?

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Sorry to hear you are getting spinners, we still need to name all the holds and then we can add a set-screw to them. We are processing feedback about the type of holds people want to train on. The plan is to keep them locked in place for 1-year, then reset.

Jack Maberry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

Works for me, thanks for the response!

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
5.samadhi wrote: honestly system boards are way overrated.
Agreed, the hold configuration and hold types of systems boards reduce their usefulness.

A "woody" that is adjustable angle, and filled with a large variety of finger strength dependent holds and mirrored right/left can be very useful, I think this is sometimes referred to as a systems board, although it is not.
Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Brendan - I'm sure that a lot of thought went in to everything, and I know nothing about putting a gym together, but the anchors on the lead routes are miserable. They're hard enough to clip by themselves, but in their current configuration (opposite and opposed and with very little room to maneuver either one of them), clipping them takes way more effort and energy than it ought to. It might not be a problem at the Sandy Momentum, but at Millcreek, where I'm pumped at the top of every route, it makes the routes less fun. Anyway - that's my two cents. I love the gym and the setting, just hate the anchors.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

^^^^^ That guy is a wuss. He needs to get stronger and quit bitching.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Skip anchor clip, victory whip?

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95
JCM wrote:Skip anchor clip, victory whip?
I like it. The walls are so overhung that my belayer can't see me and I'll always be able to claim I got the send and then took a whip for fun!
wilcox510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

I have to agree about the top anchors, and all the people I've climbed with there feel the same way. They are very annoying, difficult to clip even if you aren't pumped....The ones at the Sandy Momentum (or most other gyms I've been to) are much nicer. Other than that, the gym rocks. Except, its way too steep for my fat arse...

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

Overall, this gym is great- highlights: Colored holds for routes, great setting, nice padding, excellent training.

The bouldering walls are very high, although, the mats are state-of-the-art the landing is rough if over 40 YO. And all of these 20 YO might want to think about the impact on their spines and what they will feel like in 20 years after 1000s of landings from 17ft (or whatever).
It is nice to see about 1/2 the problems not finishing at the top. Please set more short BP esp harder grades (v7-v8ish).

What is really awesome is when all of the kids on the climbing teams bombard you in the training area and swing around the equipment. Maybe Momentum could have a policy that during peak hours (5-8PM), anyone under 16 does not need to be in the training area. Or if the kids need to be in the training area, they are respectful, let the adults work in, and don't swing on the equipment. Hmmm, sounds like a teaching moment for learning how to climb outside...
sorry, rant over. 12 kids interrupted our training session last night.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

just down climb before you drop off. I'm With You Man I would not want to repeatedly drop off the highest point.

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

Yes I down climb everything but it would be nice to have a project or two. And I am female- :)

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Brown downclimbing holds are being added to the bouldering area as it gets reset. These holds (rings) let you downclimb from the top of the wall (15'6") to about 12' above the pads. They are spaced out to allow downclimbing off of every problem.
Harder short problems are also in the works.

For those interested in training, there is a free Q&A about how to use the various training gear Wednesday, April 30th from 6-8pm on the training deck.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

The first video in our Introduction to Training Series has been posted:
vimeo.com/95868985

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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