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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

10 Mile Canyon has been in good conditions for long moderate routes and skimo. Many of the couloirs and climbs have slid out creating good neve snow and travel.

Sneaky One, one of the best ski lines in the Ten Mile Range;)

Toni's Nightmare with some big avalanche debris piles.

Obscure smears from melt freeze cycles!

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Buff Johnson wrote:anyone know if Lincoln is in yet?
Take care on the approach, there are a lot of crevasses as of lately.

Base of Lincoln Falls.

Any one been up Kieners recently? Seriously:)
Chris Snobeck · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95

Took a ski tour into GG on Sunday, 4/20, to see what was/might be soon/is in to climb and found a whole lot of sun-baked ice with wet slide activity signs all over. Good ski tour though.

All Mixed Up:

AMU.

West Gully & Stoneman
West Gully & Stoneman.

McHenry's, West Gully, and Stoneman:
McHenry's.

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

anyone got eyes on hallet chimney?

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Taylor-B. wrote: Take care on the approach [to lincoln falls], there are a lot of crevasses as of lately.
Looks like Lincoln is finally in

I need 10 partners for standard ranier technique.
And, ladders I need some ladders
Ben Coryell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 25

Has anyone been up to the Vanquished Buttress recently? Is there any ice up there? Thanks.

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

not vanquished but did womb with a view to below the crux pitch a couple weeks ago. no ice but its dripping up there. it may be worth checking out.

Ben Coryell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 25
michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

thanks ben, let us know if you find any ice up past the loch. first 3 pitches of womb were still fun.

2nd pitch of Womb.

A.P.Lee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

has anyone been up dreamweaver? ...just wondering if theres any ice yet...

Brendan James · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

Also interested in checking out dreamweaver in the next week - has anyone seen the condition of the Couloir?

MyFeetHurt · · Glenwood, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

Any idea what condition Martha is in these days? Seems late but its been a good snow year.

Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,431

Went up today - might get to pics later.

Basically, crux last step is 15 ft of good ice. The first half of it is stem-able so it's really only a couple mandatory moves on ice and several optional ice moves throughout the couloir. Otherwise, cruiser snow and a few snowy/thin ice rock steps. Looks like the weather's turning though.

Edit - climbers were on Dreamweaver, Lamb's, Flying Dutchman, and another pair were attempting Kiener's that I saw. Looked like they all cruised (not sure about Kiener's pair), but maybe they'll post something.

MyFeetHurt wrote:Any idea what condition Martha is in these days? Seems late but its been a good snow year.
justin dubois · · Estes Park · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 525

Dutchman is skiing nice as of April 18
ice is really short due to deep snow this year

Below the ice crux.

Approaching the ice.

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230

No ice on Dreamweaver yet, but currently it is a superb snow climb with a series of mixed (snow/rock) steps.

Dreamweaver 26 Apr 2014.

And here's a photo of Martha (from the base of the Loft Couloir):

Martha 26 Apr 2014.

(I posted these on the Snow Climbing thread and reposted here, since folks were asking . . .)

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115
Ryan Marsters wrote:...another pair were attempting Kiener's that I saw. Looked like they all cruised (not sure about Kiener's pair), but maybe they'll post something.
Well I wouldn't call it cruising, more like floundering. But we finished (Kieners). Snow in the Lamb Slide was decent, could be a bit firmer. Snow on Broadway was pretty variable, a little sugary for my comfort in some areas. Notch couloir seemed pretty well consolidated.
James Faerber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

I know this is a bit off the beaten path but anybody happen to know how conditions are on Fluted Peak, Skin Flute Couloir (laugh all you want I didn't name it)...ha ha ha

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

I've only seen this line in Ten Mile Canyon form up once before, about eight years ago in the fall. We checked it out and it made for a good adventure at WI3 M4+ 400ft with about a hip-deep river crossing. With the forecast for warm temps it might only last another day or two.

River crossing with the climb in the background.

First pitch.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Taylor-B. wrote:I've only seen this line in Ten Mile Canyon form up once before, about eight years ago in the fall. We checked it out and it made for a good adventure at WI3 M4+ 400ft with about a hip-deep river crossing. With the forecast for warm temps it might only last another day or two.
Damn dude...hip deep river crossings? Shrinkage man...
GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83

Yeah, that's strong I was thigh deep the other day and not happy about it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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