Any glaring holes in my sport rack?

pkeds wrote:friends dont let friends buy/use a stickclip steel quicklinks, cheaper than leaving biners

I lol'd. Solid troll post.

In case OP is confused though, a stick clip is definitely nice to have. Some sport areas/routes are bolted with the idea that you will use one. Other times it's just nice to not risk decking when there's hard moves before the first bolt. It's sport climbing -- "boldness" isn't really part of the equation.

Also don't leave quick links if you have to bail -- they are a bitch for the next person who climbs the route. You can use a bail biner but a lot of times you can use that handy dandy stick clip to stick clip your way past the crux and avoid leaving gear. Other sporto tricks like rodeo clipping, etc also come in handy here.

Oh and don't forget weed to bribe potential rope guns to hang the draws on your proj.

doligo wrote: Also, no one mentioned, but get a pair of leather work gloves from a hardware store - to belay and pull/stack the rope, eventually every rope gets covered with aluminum from biners.

This. I used to use biking gloves, I found the fingerless part helped me fiddle with things, but my palms were padded and I avoided and rope burns.

"It's always obvious who doesn't do much sport climbing."

Assuming this is in reference to what I said, are you able to tell me why QDs are better than alpine draws for sport climbing?

GRI GRI! It's a great tool to have...especially if people are projecting routes! Also, provides a back up if something goes wrong. Also, I would get 6 more draws, bringing your tally to 18 quick draws! If you have 20 you can get on anything! 18 will get you on MOST Routes in the world!

At first I thought this was a joke thread, but now that it's gone to 3 pages on "what should a sport rack look like" I guess it's not. It's a sport rack..how glaring can your holes be?

Good stuff...

I've been climbing for almost 3 1/2 years and have done big walls at this point in Yosemite and I agree with you. At first I thought it was. But then I tried to remember what it was like when I first started and how confused I was when I had no idea what a sport rack, gri gri, atc, or even a figure eight knot was! So, lets try and help him out ;) We all started somewhere!

Eliot Augusto wrote: This. I used to use biking gloves, I found the fingerless part helped me fiddle with things, but my palms were padded and I avoided and rope burns. "It's always obvious who doesn't do much sport climbing." Assuming this is in reference to what I said, are you able to tell me why QDs are better than alpine draws for sport climbing?

Not directed at you specifically.

But since you asked...there are reasons QD are better for sport climbing. 1) they're easier to clip. The rope end biner is fixed, so it moves less and is easier to clip. I suppose you can use a rubber band or string to fix the biner, but that can have its own problems. 2) we're talking about sport climbing. Pulling though on draws is a commonly used tactic in order to suss out moves or holds. It's much easier to grab a real quickdraw than it is to grab a typical skinny alpine draw.

Is it going to make a huge difference? Probably not. You can still sport climb with alpine draws and you'll get by just fine. But most people who get serious about sport climbing (i.e., not trad climbers who dabble in sport climbing) will want real quickdraws. Personally, I don't care what you use, it doesn't affect me in the slightest unless I happen to be climbing with you. Use whatever makes you happy. It's cool. But it usually is pretty obvious on these forums (and IRL) who does a lot of sport climbing (or any other type of climbing) and who doesn't.

See George's comment on the Gri Gri and Ferrari vs. VW Bug analogy. Same with QDs - people prefer climbing with people with Petzl Spirits. Smoother ride.

You need a pair of eyeballs. Take them to your favorite crag and observe what equipment people have and are using. Take note. Talk to climbers who are actually climbing.

Why are QD's better for sport climbing than alpine draws? Hmmmmmmm.....

Easier to clip. On alpine draws the carabiners can easily rotate around so that the gate of the biner is upside down and makes it hard to clip the draw! Sport draws also have the rubber holder on the bottom side that makes it easier to clip and less likely to spin. Especially on roof routes where there is a high likely hood of wind the biner will spin! Sports draws are great for this!

These wanks recommending gri-gris either don't know what the mega Jul is or have never used one.

yep, like all those 'wanks' in Rifle.

find a single Jul being used by someone in a major sport area doing 12 or harder.

Get a gri gri. Only the the most closed minded sport climb without. Get a stick clip. There are sport routes bolted with the ground fall in mind. High first bolt no ground fall between 1 and 2. Leave your pride at home. You are already sport climbing.

Ryan Palo wrote:Belay specs. Jumar for top rope belaying. Dont knock till you try it.

I picked this one up while living in Oregon, best way to TR belay. Especially since my wife freaks if she doesn't feel the rope pulling her up. . .

I keep 16 sport draws plus 2 trad draws in my pack, but we have a lot of well bolted 35m ropes in the ORG.

Also essential are flip flops or crocs, & belay gloves (at least for climbing at the ORG).

Greg D wrote:Jesus Christ people. Stop recommending stick clip. Possibly the gheyist invention in climbing. We already have too much wankery at the crags as it is. Just cuz you need one don't encourage others to lower their standards. Stop. Please stop.

Use the old school method of mountaineers; stand on your buddys back or shoulders to reach up and clip that bolt if needed.

I'm pretty sure Matt Samet knows a thing or two about sport climbing: mountainproject.com/v/the-1…

csproul wrote: Not directed at you specifically. But since you asked...there are reasons QD are better for sport climbing. 1) they're easier to clip. The rope end biner is fixed, so it moves less and is easier to clip. I suppose you can use a rubber band or string to fix the biner, but that can have its own problems. 2) we're talking about sport climbing. Pulling though on draws is a commonly used tactic in order to suss out moves or holds. It's much easier to grab a real quickdraw than it is to grab a typical skinny alpine draw. Is it going to make a huge difference? Probably not. You can still sport climb with alpine draws and you'll get by just fine. But most people who get serious about sport climbing (i.e., not trad climbers who dabble in sport climbing) will want real quickdraws. Personally, I don't care what you use, it doesn't affect me in the slightest unless I happen to be climbing with you. Use whatever makes you happy. It's cool. But it usually is pretty obvious on these forums (and IRL) who does a lot of sport climbing (or any other type of climbing) and who doesn't.

Ahhh, yeah I didn't think about pulling on draws or the biner spinning. I just accepted straightening the draw and playing with the biner as part of clipping in during all climbing. Thanks for answering!

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Use the old school method of mountaineers; stand on your buddys back or shoulders to reach up and clip that bolt if needed.

that's not ghey or anything

circumsizion. trad is scary and dangerous, you dont want to end up climbing trad. removal of the balls will ensure you stay a sport climber.

^^^castration maybe? i'm circumcised and climb trad/alpine just fine.....gotta cut those extra ounces everywhere you can.