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Any glaring holes in my sport rack?

Danny M · · CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 125
Guy Keese wrote:How do you protect yourself, while being lowered, from a bail biner?
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activities/sport/Solutions-Sport-climbing_Catalog-2011.pdf

For what it's worth, I tried this once after bailing on a very overhanging route and it wasn't worth the trouble.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Alvaro Arnal wrote:Why prussiks? This is sport cragging, right? Not an alpine adventure.
Lots of safety lessons today on use of a double PAS system at top, and a small prussik or similar Sterling rope device to use for a rappel back up on your sport cleaning and raps. Nothing wrong with that.
Sam.King · · Richmond, VA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

Dan's link explains it. I've never actually used it, though. Just read up on it.

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290
petzl.com/files/all/en/acti…

Thanks for sharing. Might consider using it if bailing off an old 1/4" bolt or fixed pin and didn't have a second rope, but I don't think bailing off a single modern bolt is cause for concern.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
Craig Childre wrote: Gri Gri cannot climb a tensioned rope, like you will encounter in most rescue scenarios.
I believe Sam was talking of "rescuing" otherwise ok climber off a top rope. It's a typical guide scenario: a beginner "stuck" mid-pitch, the belayer ascends her end of the rope with a gri-gri to talk through the "stuck" climber. Unless you are introducing grade-school kids or middle-aged folks to climbing all the time (you are a guide), it's a very unlikely scenario.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Jesus Christ people. Stop recommending stick clip. Possibly the gheyist invention in climbing. We already have too much wankery at the crags as it is. Just cuz you need one don't encourage others to lower their standards. Stop. Please stop.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

^^^^ plus 1, please stop encouraging

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Greg D wrote:Jesus Christ people. Stop recommending stick clip. Possibly the gheyist invention in climbing. We already have too much wankery at the crags as it is. Just cuz you need one don't encourage others to lower their standards. Stop. Please stop.
Just how is stick clipping lowering the sport climbing standard? It wasn't even invented by sport climbers.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
reboot wrote: Just how is stick clipping lowering the sport climbing standard? It wasn't even invented by sport climbers.
Umm. What. Stick clips are ghey for sport, trad, whatever. Who cares who invented it. Re sole, re shoe, re boot. Just don't re stick clip.
pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

friends dont let friends buy/use a stickclip

steel quicklinks, cheaper than leaving biners

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Get two laser pointers. One green and one red. Red one is for right hand holds, green is for left.

----Matt---- · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Things you need:

1. Some alpine draws.

2. An additional sling to clean with. Also, don't knot dyneema/spectra slings as it significantly reduces their strength. Knotting nylon slings is generally fine, and it does reduce strength somewhat, but not nearly as much as with dyneema/spectra. Don't shock load your slings in any event, especially with dyneema/spectra as they're very static. Also, the knot you have in your sling doesn't serve any necessary purpose.

Things that can be very nice and are probably worth it:

1. A stick clip. High first bolts can be sketchy. Some climbs can contain the crux (or a section nearly as hard as the crux) before the first bolt. I have one, and certainly wouldn't recommend using it for every climb you do, but for the times you want it it's really worth it. Not trying a climb near your limit because it's quite hard before the first bolt sucks. Falling on a climb before the first bolt and getting injured (preventing you from climbing more) also sucks. It will also make you popular at the crag, as plenty of people will want to borrow it. If you make your own, the cost is quite marginal.

2. 4 feet of 5 or 6 mm accessory cord to use as an autoblok for backing up rappels. I'm sure plenty of people are going to suggest just lowering, but some areas have an ethic not to lower, or only to lower on very overhung climbs that are very hard to clean on rappel. I'm sure others are going to suggest that a fireman's belay is sufficient. However, 4 ft of 5 or 6mm accessory cord is going to cost less than $2, and you don't always *have* to use it. Lower when you can. Rappel with a fireman's *and* an autoblok when you can't. In the event of say, rock fall, you can't necessarily guarantee you'll be able to continue to control or arrest your descent, nor can you guarantee the person giving you a fireman's belay can arrest your descent. Unlikely, but worth less than two bucks and a marginal amount of weight and bulk? I'd say so.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

I don't really get the need for quick draws instead of alpine draws.
-8 full length dyneema runners, one side key gate and the other bent wire gate.
-2 double length dyneema runners, both sides key gate
-2 half length dyneema runners, both sides wire gate
-1 double length spectra runner, 2 regular sized locking biners, 1 larger locking biner(If you need an anchor)
-ATC
-Chalk
-Harness
-Shoes

That's more than enough to get you up almost any sport route, single pitch. Add another anchor for multi-pitch. The best part is, you just started your trad rack too! You don't have to worry about having enough extending pieces. You don't have to take any extra biners up with you if you don't want, I put my chalk bag on the bail biner.

You can always replace the personal anchor with a biner and a clove hitch on the rope. You can use it at anchors on multi-pitch or when cleaning the route. If you want to go the super light route.

Anyone who tells you differently is trying to sell you something. Or being more saferest.

Mtn. Dumass · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Make sure and ground up that sport route! Stick clips are for trad and big wall only. Don't look ghey at the sport crag! You gotta be tough and dumb at the same time to look cool ground upping your proj, with your ikea rope bag.

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

yep, forgo the stickclip like the guy I watched fall on an 'easy' warmup 10' up and shatter both ankles.

bet he was glad he didn't use a stickclip... so pillars of the MP community like Greg won't question his sexual preference.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"I'm wondering if I have any glaring holes in my rack of gear for sport climbing"

You should probably pick up at least two "Suzy Hummer Blow Up Dolls". No REAL "Sport climber" would climb without them.
gf9318 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Gri Gri 2 is on sale at coloradocrackgear.com for $79. Pick one up! People prefer people with GriGri. It's like carpooling with someone in a Ferrari instead of a VW bug.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"People prefer people with GriGri."

I always love it when someone THINKS they KNOW what others think as I personally cannot stand when anyone belays me with a gri gri.

First thing that comes to my mind when I see one hanging on someones harness is...

n00b.

LOL!
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

It's always obvious who doesn't do much sport climbing.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
csproul wrote:It's always obvious who doesn't do much sport climbing.
No kidding.

A lot of people stuck in the past too.

Pretty cool to see some folks still growing and learning as climbers though- rgold springs immediately to mind, there are certainly others.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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