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Any glaring holes in my sport rack?

Original Post
Antonio Caligiuri · · Bishop, CA · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 66

This is my first full season of sport climbing and I'm wondering if I have any glaring holes in my rack of gear for sport climbing. Pictured below I have:

-12 quickdraws on dogbones
-1 Edelrid Mega Jul belay device on HMS locking biner
-1 BD ATC-XP on locking biner
-1 60cm Mammut sling on locker for going in direct and cleaning
-2 oval lockers
-2 spare lockers
-1 petzl non-locker
-3 BD neutrino (bail biners)

Sport gear

Not pictured is my webbing, I have the following lengths tied off in water knots:

-15ft (~7.5ft working length)
-12ft (~6ft working length)
-8ft (~4ft working length)

Obviously, I also have a rope (10.5, 60m), harness and helmet.

I know I could probably use another set of 6 quickdraws and some more webbing in longer loops, but are there any other necessities I am missing? I appreciate the advice!

Alvaro Arnal · · Aspen, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,535

Why all the webbing and extra carabiners? This is the "rack" that I take for sport climbing:

Quickdraws (enough to get up the climbs I want to do)
Gri Gri
1 or 2 bail biners (old biners that I bootied off of other routes)

Simple. Done.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

your list looks pretty good. I might only add:

Stick clip (all you need is a painters pole and an A-clamp)

2 prussiks or a cordellette just in case you ever need to go hands free

Andy Elliott · · Hampton NH · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 40

i dont like how you taped both biners on your draws. but thats just me trollin.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

a couple alpine draws are essential for extending placements under roofs and overhangs.

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Gri Gri

TJ Souther · · Brevard, NC · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 35

I would add another 60cm sling to clean with, I like clipping into both bolts on a two-bolt anchor if available

RyanO · · sunshine · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 145

lycra?

Antonio Caligiuri · · Bishop, CA · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 66

Thanks for the input everyone. I decided to forego the Gri Gri for the much cheaper Mega Jul. I have not been disappointed with it so far. The auto-locking/assisted-braking feature seems to work just as well as the Gri Gri.

Alvaro, the webbing and extra biners are simply gear that I had from last fall when I was mainly rigging top-ropes. My partners and I are still fairly new (leading 5.8-5.10a)so it may just be for peace of mind but I still like to bring it along.

I have been experiencing a lot of rope drag on routes with ledges and overhangs so I'll definitely get some more 60cm slings for a couple alpine draws.

Also what diameter cord is best for a good prussik?

Thanks again guys.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

+1 for adding another personal anchor I always use 2 unless there is an awesome ledge to stand on. Also you will want some alpine draws for extending bolts near bulges/roofs

I also personally use 2 slings with 4 lockers for building a TR anchor instead of just quickdraws because sometimes quickdraws don't equalize very well.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

20 ft 6mm cord for random events with a small belay knife zip tied to the biner it's hanging on. Prussik up a line, belay escape, etc

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Gri Gri, a 70M sub-10mm rope, a couple of draws with long dog-bones, couple of stiff bones, a stick clip and a rope bag (IKEA blue bag is the best). With a stick clip you don't need bail biners. And for your personal tether, either just use a draw or replace that dyneema sling with a nylon one - sport climbing is harsh on the harness tie-in loops, why wear them out with a sling?

gf9318 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Not sure if it counts in the rack, but you'll definitely need a boombox, some beer and some weed.

Siberia · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 30

It looks like your asking what else you may need for a day of sport cragging, and your set up looks pretty complete. Get two extendable draws and maybe a stick clip and you're good.

I always take two extendable 'trad' draws to clip the anchors and skip the PAS system. Also, my 'oh shit biner' which is actually two old lockers and two prusiks is with me when i leave the ground whether TR or trad. I just keep it on my haul loop out of the way

One trashed bail biner if route is at or above my limit.

For your actual rack, I only leave the ground with:

- The number of draws needed for the climb, plus one (in case of a drop)
- two extendable draws (for the anchors
- Oh shit locker
- One bail biner, if at limit
- Reverso 3 on the Oh shit locker

Sam.King · · Richmond, VA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

You really don't need 6 more draws. 12 should get you up almost any sport climb, but +1 on a few alpines. Having a few extended draws to place under roofs or in traversing bolt lines can dramatically cut down on rope drag and protect your rope from abrasion. You can also slightly extend regular quick draws by clipping a draw to a bolt and then climbing the rope end into the loose part of the dogbone on another draw by either removing the existing binder or just letting it hang off, but DO NOT just climb the biners together.

Also, if your building a top rope anchor, you should have four lockers (two for bolts, two for rope), either two double length slings or one triple length (depending on how you equalize it), and another two small lockers for directing in to clean your anchor. Not sure what all that webbing is for unless your slinging trees or boulders.

If the sling with an overhand knot and the positron is for cleaning, you should take the knot out, because its just weakening the sling and unnecessary. And you should always have to two points to direct in.

My two cents.

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Using a PAS for trad makes me lol

But using a PAS for sport ... ROFL!!!

10.5... feeding that through your Gri knockoff may be more of a workout than the climb.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

holy shit......i don't take half of the recommended mp sport rack these days.

Alvaro Arnal · · Aspen, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,535
ze_dirtbag wrote:holy shit......i don't take half of the recommended mp sport rack these days.
Seriously. I guess people like hiking to the crag with huge, heavy packs. Training weight.
ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

you might consider a tag line and microscender to haul the sport pig

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

Belay specs.

Jumar for top rope belaying. Dont knock till you try it.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

ehhhhh......i'm gonna go ahead and knock it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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