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Garden of the Gods

Original Post
DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

Hey guys. Just a bit of fore-story, I'll be in Colorado Springs this summer for an internship at Ft. Carson teaching climbing and river guiding. I'll have quite a bit of time to do a lot of climbing since Garden of the Gods is a (I think) 30 minute drive from the base. So here's my question. What size nuts, cams, and pro in general works best out there? Anything I should know about the area before I get out there? I've heard there isn't any camping in GOG but that's not based on anything super credible I've heard. Also, if anyone is looking for a catch and someone to climb with let me know. I'll be there from May 12-August 12.

goatboy · · Nederland, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 30

Typical rack up to 4" cams will be fine, plus some long slings.

You will have to sign up at the visitor center to climb there, and will have to avoid the place if there has been any rain within 24 hours. The rock is very soft and friable so be careful of your placements and remember to pull down and not out.

There is no camping in the park but there is a tent/RV campground right outside the park, but it's pricy.

rvcoutdoors.com/garden-of-t…

Stewart M. Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 161

Most Garden routes are either bolted or have fixed pitons with the occasional cam for extra protection, so you really need a minimal rack as Goatboy points out. Also check out Red Rock Canyon south of US 24 with over 100 sport routes, North Cheyenne Canon, as well as great granite climbing in the South Platte and Elevenmile Canyon. Also Shelf Road north of Canon City...have fun!

RoHo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Hi folks, I plan a visit of the garden in May 2016 and I'am looking for a information I could'nt found until now. On many pictures of the rocks you can see nice, massive towers and next to them a great needle / spire which is pretty amazing and thin. Is this one Montezuma Tower or is it a other one? If it is a other one, is it climbable? Or are there some nice formations where it is not allowed to climb on? Thanks for your help and greetings from Germany, Robert

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290
RoHo wrote:Hi folks, I plan a visit of the garden in May 2016 and I'am looking for a information I could'nt found until now. On many pictures of the rocks you can see nice, massive towers and next to them a great needle / spire which is pretty amazing and thin. Is this one Montezuma Tower or is it a other one? If it is a other one, is it climbable? Or are there some nice formations where it is not allowed to climb on? Thanks for your help and greetings from Germany, Robert
Without a picture we're all just guessing which formations you're talking about.
tim · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 507

GOG is objectively pretty shitty. Mostly bad rock, total tourist shit show, irritating rules and regs. You may want to consider other options.

RoHo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Sure, without a picture its hard to understand me. So, on this one, there is a thin needle in the central , which looks nice: clarkvision.com/galleries/i…

This one attracts me. Are there more of that high, thin one like a Totem Pole in the US?

Thanks for your patience!

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290
RoHo wrote:Sure, without a picture its hard to understand me. So, on this one, there is a thin needle in the central , which looks nice: clarkvision.com/galleries/i… This one attracts me. Are there more of that high, thin one like a Totem Pole in the US? Thanks for your patience!
That's Montezuma Tower . Keep in mind that it is more like a flake than a totem pole (you're seeing it from the thinnest aspect). There's a lot of info on the routes at Garden of the Gods on Mountain Project in the routes section.
RoHo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Thank's Will!

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

If you are wanting to climb quality gear routes your best bet is South Platte and NOT Garden of the Gods. about an hour and a half from Ft. Carson I believe and infinitely better

Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71
MrZ wrote:If you are wanting to climb quality gear routes your best bet is South Platte and NOT Garden of the Gods. about an hour and a half from Ft. Carson I believe and infinitely better
I know RoHo said he's planning on a May trip, but for those of us here now, are there any South Platte areas that are likely to be climbable in winter? I love Elevenmile, but it's pretty snowy/icy/cold these days.
Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

Anything south facing in the S. Platte is climable in winter if the weather is good.

Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71

Cool. Thanks guys!

Dan McCabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

The Garden has some great climbing and some not so great climbing. Grey Rock is awesome and there are some real classics on other formations. It gets a bad reputation due to the run-outs and less than inspiring protection. The problems are all surrounding the politics that have driven very poor regulations. Bolts need to be placed, replaced, installed and new routes opened for equipping. More drama than congress.

Garden of the Gods Staff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 106
goatboy wrote:You will have to sign up at the visitor center to climb there
An update since this thread got bumped:

Climbing permits are available online at parks.coloradosprings.gov/c… .

Please note that climbing permits are no longer avialable at the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center, all permits are being processed online at the link above.
JenH · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 145

Don't bother w/ GOG or Red Rock Canyon Open Space. Sandy junk show.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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