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thoughts on approach shoes

Original Post
ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

the plan- i've got my sights set on a few traverses in the sierras this summer. it's looking like mostly easy 5th to 5.8ish and a couple pitches up to 10 or 10+. my gameplan is to climb up to 5.8 in approach shoes and whip out the tc's for the harder stuff.

the issue- i'm rocking cruzers right now, i love the light weight and how well they pack down. the downside is the dot rubber on the bottom and they're sized for approaches instead of climbing (i like keeping my toenails).

the needs- i'm going to be covering a lot of ground, so i need something that i can wear all day. since i'm not going to size them super tight, i'm thinking a fairly stiff midsole to let press some edges. i'll be stomping around a couple glaciers, so something water resistant or something that will dry out well overnight. i'm going through the painstaking process of shaving every ounce out of my gear that i don't need, so i would like to either keep that mindset and go minimalist or buy something that feels like i'm walking on sunshine and rainbows and just carry less whiskey.

thoughts? experiences?

EricF · · San Francisco · Joined May 2012 · Points: 120

I love my sportive boulder x mid. Great approach shoe for climbing in, also great for step in crampons for easy snow travel, mid is nice to keep some no out of shoe an support on long days, but a bit heavy, not great fo running in if that's your thing. Also regular boulder x are great and lighter.

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Two words my friend. Guide tennie

JacksonLandFill Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 40

Merrell Ventilator gore-tex
Merrell Chameleon stretch... might also have a gore-tex version as well?

Ventilator is stiffer, chameleon is softer. I use both for approach and have climbed in them as well. Built like tanks.

Jason4 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I've climbed 5.8 in my Cruzers and walked a long ways up logging roads in them carrying a heavy split kit for spring touring. They are great when conditions are dry but soak through almost instantly. They have a place but I don't think it's on anything involving snow. I wouldn't worry about the dots on the soles and if you're a strong climber you might be able to climb 10+ in them.

I also have 5.10 Guide Tennies and don't feel any better in snow with them but at least they stay dry longer. I used to have a pair of Montrail (D7s?) approach shoe a long time ago that was pretty sweet. My next pair of approach shoes will either be another pair of cruzers or something more like a low top mountaineering boot.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Guide tennie, only way to go. Plus, you can wet wade in them and they're just as sticky in the stream bed as they are on dry ground.

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488

I love my Salewa Wildfires. They climb well, protect well, and come in a waterproof goretex version.

carl · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

I've climbed 5.9+ in Cruzers, sized tightly. If you have the foot strength (for example, if you normally climb in slippers), 5.8 shouldn't be a problem in any shoe with sticky rubber.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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