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bivy sack advice for RMNP?

Original Post
Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Dear Mountain project gods--I'm looking for a bivy sack for crashing near the bottom of climbs in RMNP. Something that has:

1)a pole for some head room (so I won't feel claustrophobic)
2) very light, under 2 pounds
3) won't collect condensation
4) waterproof
5) 3 season, since I'm not planning on any winter bivys if I can help it (although 4 season of course would work)

Personally, I really like the bivy tents, but I'm not if anyone has used a bivy tent in RMNP. I really like the NEMO Gogo elite ( basegear.com/nemo-gogo-elit…) as a potential candidate. I think I can still use it as a bivy sack without staking it, but does anyone have any experience with this? For regular bivy sacks I've been looking at the OR alpine bivy.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

ElizabethW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Everyone has differnt needs, but in general in the alpine environment I am focused on superlight/fast options and care alot about weight/siz. In addition, I am female and get cold easily. My bivy set up is the OR highland bivysac, EXPED superlight pad, and halo sleeping bag. The bivy sac has the pole and mesh options, and is super waterproof in my experience through many a rain/hail storm.The EXPED pad is not cheap, but is so small and light, yet still has great insulation. You do compromise a bit of durablity and I have learned the hard way not to chill out on it on the rocks outside of my bivy :)
The halo is down and compressable and i find that, even at 14K it provides enoguh warmth (in combo with proper clothes and a good bivy sac, of course). Hand warmers and/or warm nalgene bottle in your bag at night goes a long way in a pinch.
Hope that helps.
Elizabeth

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

I've had good luck with the Black Diamond hooped bivy sack ( blackdiamondequipment.com/e… ), a Cascade Designs Z-Rest Sol pad( cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-…) and a Marmot Atom sleeping bag. I upgraded to a Marmot Plasma 30 sleeping bag (water repellent down, water repellent shell) for this year, I'm still looking for a chance to try it out.

The wire hoop on the bivy sack gives me just enough headroom to avoid claustrophobia, and the extra room at the head of the bivy is nice for stashing extra clothing, etc. The Z-Rest pad offers enough padding for my needs/tastes, it's lighter and cheaper than any self-inflating pad I've seen, and it will never, ever spring a leak on me. It's also great to kneel on while I'm messing with the stove, etc., or to sit on when it's folded. It is bulkier than a self-inflating pad, though.

The Atom is a nice enough fair weather sleeping bag, but the 40 degree rating is kind of minimal for high altitude bevies. The new, updated Marmot Atom is a distinct improvement over my older model (water repellent shell, baffles, full length zipper).

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

I use the BD tripod. It's heavier than the hooped bivy, but you can chose to take pole for comfort or leave it for light and fast missions. I've used it all over even on big walls. The only downside is the weight but the heavier material is nice as well as the head room. I can fit me and my bag etc. Inside the bag which for in climate weather is also nice. I also use the exped mat which I like alot.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

Can't beat the OR Helium Bivy it only weighs 1lb 2oz! Luckily inin RMNP there are a lot of great bivy cave's that will keep you totally dry with out having a bivy sack, but that is if you can get to them before others do.

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 41
Monty wrote:Can't beat the OR Helium Bivy it only weighs 1lb 2oz! Luckily inin RMNP there are a lot of great bivy cave's that will keep you totally dry with out having a bivy sack, but that is if you can get to them before others do.
Wow! That OR bivy looks great. Waterproof, with hoop, and light. What's the catch?

I have a BD spotlight bivy that has been ok for alpine, mostly winter. But the toe box is way too small and compresses my 0-degree bag when I'm sleeping on a thick pad. And the material is not fully waterproof (though perfect for snow and wind).
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520
Jonathan Awerbuch wrote: Wow! That OR bivy looks great. Waterproof, with hoop, and light. What's the catch?
It's fairly priced too! My guess is that it's not quite as durable as some of the other 3 layer goretex bivy's, but just as long as your not sledding down a glacier in it you should be all right. OR is getting great reviews for their Helium series. Check out the jacket too, it's fully waterproof and only weighs 6 oz! I just ordered mine for this season.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

If it's a team of two, a superlight tent (like BD Firstlight) is always lighter than two bivies plus offers more shelter. Just ask Colin Haley: cascadeclimbers.com/article….

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
Jonathan Awerbuch wrote: Wow! That OR bivy looks great. Waterproof, with hoop, and light. What's the catch? I have a BD spotlight bivy that has been ok for alpine, mostly winter. But the toe box is way too small and compresses my 0-degree bag when I'm sleeping on a thick pad. And the material is not fully waterproof (though perfect for snow and wind).
Looking at the pictures, a sleeping bag takes up the full length of the bivy sack, unlike the BD bivy sacks. So it won't be as easy to have extra clothing inside the bivy with you, and getting dressed inside the bivy (like when you wake upon a rainstorm) won't be as easy.

Doligo, what you say about a tent vs. 2 bivy sacks is true. However, RMNP regulations only allow bivy sacks (no tent poles) at climbing bivy sites in the park. Also, a tent requires a larger flat spot than a bivy bag, and large flat spots can be tough to find sometimes.
Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 546

I've been extremely happy with my OR Highland bivy.

Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Ooh, the OR helium looks pretty good. Any thoughts though about the Nemo Gogo bivy tent? I really like that it has a little vestible and is very low profile and weighs 1lb 4oz, as much as or less than a bivy sack. backcountry.com/nemo-equipm…
Just not sure how it would work as a regular bivy sack if I didn't tension it down.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

I could be wrong, but it looks as if you'd have to stake out that vestibule, and chances are if it wasn't staked out, it would just flop over. If that is the case, it wouldn't be very functional in RMNP as 99% of the time you are/ should be bivying on rock. Looks like a sweet bivy though!

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Mountain Laurel Designs eVent bivy.

Those pole hope things are gimmicky and generally a PITA.

Michael Goodhue · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 35

If you are bivying in RMNP, technically you are not allowed to set up a tent. I personally think it is a good idea to respect this regulation, as the Park is providing a procedure to allow overnight access for rock climbers, which is excluded to backpackers and campers.

That said, you probably could get away with a one-person bivy tent if you plan on setting it up at dusk and taking it down in the morning. Leaving it up during the day could get you a ticket, and also be would bad climbing (and bivy) access karma.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

I hate bivy sacks , not a single one of them ever made is worth a shit ! And I've owned em all at one time or another ! Word people every bivy sack I've ever tried ended up soaking me from the inside ! If there is even the slightest bit of moisture in the air the condensation in that bag will fill a bucket ! Same with that first light pos tent ! I took that pile of shit up for a night out in the boulder field to test it for use in Patagonia....long story short light mist that afternoon I had the vents open and the top of the door facing away from the drizzle and cracked open at the top still under the that little excuse for an awning , all seams had been sealed two days before and guess what ? I woke up in a puddle ! So with that being said hers my take on camping in RMNP .......

There is no place in RMNP worth climbing that cannot be reached in a couple hours , three tops

I prefer to have a nice MOTEL in Estes Park , get in early , go to sleep early and get the fuck up early! Back to Miguel's for fish tacos n beer before they close .

Hauling all that worthless shit into the park only adds to your dis-enjoyment .

Save the suffering for when it really matters not in some rock circus like the park

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520
Cragging in RMNP

Ya hanging out in Glacier Gorge for several nights with good friends and cragging a different alpine wall every day is really overrated. Enjoy your hotel!
Jere · · Washington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60

One of the best materials hands down for any single wall shelter is Todd-tex. This material is used in many of Black Diamond/ Bibler shelters. Such as the bomb shelter, fitzroy, i-tent, and bipod, big wall, and hooped bivies. I've used the bipod bivy for 6 years in 4 seasons. From mid february blizzards to summer monsoons and from the base of desert towers to glaciers in the cascades. This is the most breathable shelter material I have found. Todd-tex provides an extremely thin inside layer similar to fleece. This thin layer provides an air space in-between the sleeping bag and shell material. Thus allowing breathability. Most brands have a very high quality waterproof material however to prevent interior condensation the material also has to be breathable. To ensure the material stays waterproof and breathable the durable water repellent has to be maintained. A properly maintained DWR is apparent when the water beads on the outside of the shell. Therefore regular nikwax wash and spray is recommended.

Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Going with the OR Helium bivy. Thanks for the advice everyone!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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