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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,066 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Holliday on Nov 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This route ascends a right-facing dihedral system up to a wide crack (that narrows down) through an overhang. It starts to the right of the face that contains Peril-less Journey. I started by clipping the first bolt of a new sport route just to the right of Peril-less Journey and then firing straight up the dihedral. There are many dubious flakes along the way, and the rock is not great until you're just below the overhang and wide crack. The rock is quite solid from there to the top.
I finished by reaching over to the left and clipping the anchor of Burning Down the House. I'm sure the route continued a few feet more to the top when it was first put up, but we didn't do that.
The route can be seen in the beta photo for Burning Down the House. It's to the right of that route.
I finished by reaching over to the left and clipping the anchor of Burning Down the House. I'm sure the route continued a few feet more to the top when it was first put up, but we didn't do that.
The route can be seen in the beta photo for Burning Down the House. It's to the right of that route.
Photos
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