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How many draws?

Original Post
josh myers-dean · · everett, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Hey everyone! I'm new here and fairly new to climbing (I've only done Top rope stuff and I'm a gym climber). I have a friend who is a certified instructor at Central WA university who plans to show me the ins and outs of leading sport. However being a broke high school student my gear is accumulating slowly, with my next purchase going towards a rope in a paycheck or two. Anyways how many quick draws does a person usually need for intro sport routes (or just a safe number to have). Thank you for any responses!

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

12 for route 2 for anchor = 14. can usually count from the ground and bring +1 or 2 more than what you see from the ground unless specified.

josh myers-dean · · everett, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Alright, thank you! Do you know of a site with decently priced draws?

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

whew. there are many just google that shit! you'll be overwhelmed with deals. the omega pacific ones are super heavy though cheap. i mean super heavy.

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

i like the bd ones, or mad rock or similar. bd posiwire? are what i like (for the price)

josh myers-dean · · everett, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

I can probably deal with heavy until I get some more experience and onto harder routes. Thanks for the responses!

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445
michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

honestly you'll be very happy to have gotten lightweight aluminum draws. if i can give you one piece of advice its to shell out the extra dough to get the bd posiwire 30 bucks more for 12. those OP ones will just sit in your closet once you decide they're ridiculously heavy. go feel em' at a store if you don't believe me!

rei.com/product/812097/blac…

Whoops, they are comparable weight. i saw some old steel binder draws from OP.

Bill C. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 110
acmeclimbing.com/blackdiamo…

10 draws for $107 with free shipping. Same deal I used when I started climbing 8 years ago and I'm still using these draws.

Have fun/be safe!

Bill
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

how long is a piece of string? having a hard time answering? likewise I am having a hard time answering your question. How many bolts do sport route that you climb normally have?

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

Find draws you like, then do yourself the favor of looking around.

deals.mountainproject.com/ is a good place to start.

For instance, someone offered 10 Freewires for 107, but I just found the same at 9.31 each.

campsaver.com/freewire-quic…

Personally, I get annoyed with cheapish draws like Freewires because the wiregate on the bolt end can and will get stuck on hangars when cleaning on lower, especially on steeper routes with a lot of tension etc. I prefer draws with a solid gate top, and wire gate bottom, though it is personal preference.

I'd suggest getting the feel for several different draws at a gear store you can visit, then search for the absolutely lowest price you can find them anywhere.

My first set of draws was 12 BD Hotwires, an $18 draw that I found on sale for somewhere around ~11 each a couple years ago. Wait for the right time, then pounce.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

IMO wire gates suck. Anywhere on a sport draw.

PatCleary · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Buy fewer and better draws, you'll have them a while, and probably want nicer ones. Also, your partners will probably have them. My personal favorite are new spirit solid gates on the bolt end, express draw and mad rock ultralight or bd oz (new style) wiregate rope end.

Why the sidebars hate 5.samadhi? They're demonstrably better as a rope end. I was shocked to see how real gate flutter was with solid gates.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

actually it's more of a convenience issue they just tend to get snagged on all sorts of shit

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I'm weird by today's standards: I hate wire gates on 'draws. I'm really partial to Petzl Spirits. The new version, out last year, while not as aesthetically pleasing, is noticeably lighter. Not wire gate light, but lighter.

As for the number: I say 30. ;-) Carrying all of your heavy gear around is good exercise! (I'm kidding: you don't need 30. But for some reason, I have just about that many... more than half of which are almost never used and should probably be sold. I only ever take 14 with me, unless I know otherwise about bolts. On occasion, I've needed more than 14 for long routes, but then my partner almost always has some, too.)

Trevor · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 830

I'd consider BD FreeWires, you can usually find them under $10 a piece, they're not too heavy, and I haven't had a problem with any of mine. The non-keylock nose is not a big deal at all except when you're cleaning really steep sport routes. As for number, it depends where you'll be climbing. Sport climbs can be anywhere from 3-20 bolts per pitch, although it's rare that I climb something with more than about 12 per pitch.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

And in some states 5 is a common number and 10 is long. Depends where you will climb.

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,323

This dude is selling draws

mountainproject.com/v/8-qui…

Mike Lero · · NH · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I would recommend getting nice draws, even if you can afford fewer of them at first. It might limit what you can climb (shorter routes), but draws are something you don't really get rid of. Maybe after a long time you'd replace the dogbone, but the biners will last. Make the initial investment and you'll save in the long run.

J. Kincaid · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

As said before, numbers vary.

I say freeload off you're partner until you figure out what you like and don't like about different draws, or want to climb with someone else who doesn't have them.

But if you must buy soon... Go notch less at least for the bolt end.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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