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Suggested stopper rack for beginner aid

Original Post
Zac Warren · · Springdale, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 210

I am new to aid and wanting to beef up my standard stopper rack. I currently have huevos 1-13 with doubles of 6-10 and #4 and #5 metolius astronut brass offset. I will primarily be climbing desert aid in Utah but I will be out in the valley for a while in September and hope to get on a wall if I can find a partner. What brands and sizes would you recommend? I know this is a question where I will likely get 10 different responses from 10 different people but I could use some input. Thanks guys.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Offsets. DMM/HB. Tiniest bullshit you can find through the #11.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Yup, what ^ said. 3 or 4 sets.

Nathan Scherneck · · Portland, OR · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 2,370

Take a peak at the Supertopo rack suggestions for the aid routes in Zion. I think they suggest like 3-4 sets of brass offsets for Desert Shield for instance. You'd be set with maybe a set of DMM alloy offsets and a couple of sets of brassies (in addition to what you have). Then borrow more brass if you plan to get on something like Desert Shield.

I've always ended up with more gear than I've actually needed on walls.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Yep I'm with Ryan on this one .So plus 2 here....

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

Typically in Zion it isn't the smallest offset brass that you use a lot of but the med sizes, like # 4,5. Often I take two sets of the brass and then extra in the larger brass sizes. Likewise for the alloy DMM wires, the 6 and 7 are used all the time so I often have triples in that size.

The other passive pieces I would recommend are the pink, red and blue tricams.

Zac Warren · · Springdale, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 210

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate the beta. Are peenuts worth their weight and costs or do the regular offsets work just fine? As an eastern climber who has transplanted west, I already have a small rack of tricams and swear by them. They are like that lucky wallet condom of youth. Never leave home without it and you may never use it but when you need it you are damn happy you brought em.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

DMM allot offsets plus DMM peenuts (the peenuts fill in the smaller sizes that the alloys don't go down to) and a set or two off DMM/HB offset brassies.

My first peenut was found at the base of el cap. I ended up using it so much I was sold and got the entire set. They fit amazingly in pin scars and their longer head shape will fit where similar size offset brassies don't always fit.

I don't even bother with "normal" nuts anymore on aid.

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Another vote for the HB/DMM offsets from about #3 on up. The biggest one is a take it or leave it piece. 1-2 sets is usually enough depending on the route.

Add to that another set of normal stoppers next. Mostly it is safe to leave the biggest few sizes at home, depending on the route. It is generally better to place a cam so the second can quickly clean it than a stopper, so big stopper get very little use even if they would fit in a lot of spots.

Add in more micro stoppers after that. I have lots of random little crap I have accumulated, nothing too favorite. It is just nice to have a pile random "other" crap to sift through then you are faced with some odd spot and are scraping the bottom of the barrel for ideas.

I have a set of Peenuts, and they just don't make it into my rotation very much. Nothing wrong with them, but I have 2 sets of the HB/DMM's offsets, and just go for them first.

The very smallest sizes are generally not very useful in RP's and offsets DMM's, probably more useful on less traveled horror shows.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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