Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Luke Stefurak
Page Views: 2,653 total · 20/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Apr 16, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Surf and Turf aka Vaca Desesperada involves some tricky mantels to access a gradually widening splitter.

Climb past tricky moves and many bolts to access the flare below the splitter. Swim up and climb fingers until your feet reach the top of the flare.

Off-fingers locks with bad feet lead to finger stacks and eventually thin hands.

Placing gear is challenging along with the guarantee that everyone will find a bad size.

Finish the climb with crisp glorious #1 camalots which widen to hands at the anchor.

Location Suggest change

On the right side past Fatted Calf but before Have a Cow (the super splitter off-width).

Protection Suggest change

Five closely spaced bolts lead to a splitter that widens from thin fingers to thin hands. A #3 camalot protect the pod between the face climbing and the splitter.

My redpoint rack was 1 each .4 &.5 C4, 1x 1.5 friend(.75 C4 works too), 2x #1 camalot, 1x #3 camalot.

For the onsight/first go I would bring doubles or more in the .5 and .75 size. A #2 camalot also goes in near the top, if you don't want to run it out to the anchor.

Photos

loading