Tenaya Climbing Shoes

DoesNotCare wrote: Unfortunately you have to size the Oasi down-I went 2 FULL sizes down at a demo-I normally wear a 13.5 in the Ra, but 11.5 in the Oasi. Good luck, they have free return shipping at Trango, so you could order 2 or 3 pairs!

FWIW, I'm a 7 in Tatankas and a 6.5 in Oasis. I wear my Tatankas tight and Oasi's loose though.

Also, I was a 38.5 Euro when I used to slum it in la sportivas :)

That helops..its seems like go a full size down from my tatankas which i wear tight for a similar fit. Im going to go with 7.5, as I wear a 8.5 in tatankas and see how it goes!

Monomaniac wrote:FWIW, I'm a 7 in Tatankas and a 6.5 in Oasis. I wear my Tatankas tight and Oasi's loose though. Also, I was a 38.5 Euro when I used to slum it in la sportivas :)

Marek Sapkovski wrote: If you don't mind... Since you happen to wear the same size sportivas as me, could you share which sizes of other Tenaya shoes you tried/own? I am especially interested for Ra and Inti.

Monomaniac wrote: Size 7 for both Inti and Ra. The Inti is narrower/tighter at that size than the Ra.

I wear a size 11 in the Ra, 12 in the Masai and will get a 10.5 in the Oasi when the time comes

Sizing of the Ra turned out unusual for me. My street shoe size is US Men's 7.
For rock shoes, I too wear 38.5 Sportiva and 39.5 in Scarpa Vapor V. Size 7 Ra was SO TIGHT I could barely get my low-vol but not too narrow feet into them. I exchanged for size 8 which feels just right walking around in my basement. I haven't really had a chance to test them out for real yet (been sick for a week).

Any suggestions for a good Tenaya shoe for multi pitch Eldo/Lumpy/RMNP routes?
I like my Ras for the gym, but they aren't working for Eldo- too painful.
Could get a larger size maybe, if the fit is still ok.
Are Tatankas a lace up equivalent?

tatankas are much more agressive than the ras.

If you want multipitch all dsy trad, that still edges amazingly go with the masai.

tatankas are way different from the ras. the ras are much stiffer, particularly in torsion about the long axis of the foot. for lumpy, i would think the best tanaya shoe would be a sized up ra, or maybe a sized up masai (for the cracks at least).

Definitely go with the Masais! Great all day triad shoe that performs well in most all aspects of climbing. They edge and smear equally well and are super comfortable

I picked up a pair of the Ras last week, as I wanted a velcro shoe for the gym. Normally Miura laces are my go to, but I wanted to branch out, and didn't want to drop the $$$ on Miura VS. Street shoe size is usually 10, Miura laces size is 41, which is for sport and bouldering performance (read: very tight). I wanted the Ras to be a bit looser, but wasn't able to try on many different sizes, as the only retailer near me that carries them had a limited selection.

Based on the sizes I did try on, I decided to order the Ras in 42 (US 9). They fit my foot shape quite well, and I'm very impressed by the heels. Heel hooking has felt great so far, and I've actually busted out some heel hooks that I don't think I would be confident in even with Miuras. I wish I had gotten the 42.5, as they are a little tighter than I wanted for the gym, but they're not tight enough to be uncomfortable.

It's been a long time since I've climbed in anything but Miuras. I got a pair of 5.10 Galileo's when they had that crazy sale a few months ago, but again, ordered those without trying on pairs first and wound up getting a size too small. The only reason I got them is because of how good for edging I'd read they were, and I was just about to go on a trip to Red Rocks, where I thought it might be nice to have a good edging shoe. They definitely are good for edging, but I think being so used to Miuras has made me expect a little more sensitivity from my boot, and I found it hard to trust small edge foot placements with Galileos because I couldn't feel them. And unless I'm doing climbs where I know the majority of feet will be edges, with little smearing, I don't think I would ever wear the Galileos.

To contrast against that, I've found the Ras to be surprisingly good at edging (based on a few sessions in the gym, albeit) without feeling like sensitivity or flexibility are sacrificed. Although I was expecting to use these just in the gym, I will definitely keep them in the quiver for outdoor climbing in case I want a little more edging power than I get with Miura laces.

The only negative thing I've noticed is that using the outside edge of my toe/foot doesn't feel quick as balanced or centered as I'm used to. I'm wondering if this is related to the complaints a few posters have had with the design focusing power towards the middle of the foot rather than the toe (?), or if it's just something I have to get used to with a new shoe.

Overall, I would definitely recommend Ras to anyone interested in a velcro shoe for those with relatively low volume feet (sup Sportiva fans!) interested in "moderate" sport or bouldering -- when I say moderate, I mean not excessively slabby or insanely overhanging. For the latter, I would probably think about the Oasi, and I don't do enough slab climbing to really have an opinion on the former :)

Good deals on Tenayas if you know your size: geartrade.com/browse/climb

Just thought I'd add my experience in regard to sizing Masais. I wear a size 9 or 9.5 street shoe. After a somewhat lengthy process of returns to Trango (thanks Linda for your patience and customer service), I ended up with size 9.5 Masais (Euro size 42.5). They were still pretty tight with quite a bit of toe curl when new, but after a couple of weeks they have formed to my feet and gotten fairly comfortable. I'll probably never wear them for multi-pitch routes, but they're fine for shorter climbs.

Hey all, I have been using a pair of the Inti shoes for about three months now. Being a relatively new climber. I only have one other shoe to compare them to - the La Sportiva Turantulace shoe. The Turantulace wasn't at all a bad pick for a beginner, but after wearing them out, and improving my climbing ability I wanted a little bit of a step up in my shoe. I tried on a lot of different brands and models that were really aggressive like the Shamans, Solutions, etc. I wanted something in between beginner and pro, but didn't really know what to get. I saw the Inti's on sale on Backcountry and decided to go for it. Awesome shoes to say the least! I'm mostly leading single pitch sport 9's and 10's on mostly limestone and sandstone and they do the job perfectly! I feel like my next model will be the Ra. Definitely awesome shoes!

Anyone have the RA and Masai? I have a 10 RA and was curious what size Masai would fit.....

squiddo wrote:Anyone have the RA and Masai? I have a 10 RA and was curious what size Masai would fit.....

I think they all fit around the same for a given size; I have the Masai in a 14.0 for all day comfy, 13.5 Inti for sport climbing, & 12.5 Ra for bouldering & short-hard sport.

If you like the fit of your Masai and want the Ra to fit the same then I think you should get the same size.

To make things clear, my Ra's at size 11 are pretty damned snug!! My Masais are sized comfortably for guiding and all day wear. That being said: however, I have not compromised edging ability or performance. Pretty remarkable shoe!! The Masai's are considerably narrower so perhaps going up a half size or so isn't a bad idea.