Wait, what grade do you lead?!?!

I find that the same guys who inflate their leading ability, also are the most defensive if you critique an anchor that they built. You should be able to discuss such matters, without defensiveness on anyone's part.

Ryan-G wrote: Ha, ha…I read this and thought, "Is this because I asked if you wanted to do Rest and Be Thankful?" Then I realized it couldn't be me you were referring to - you already know I bump my grade! That said, you know my stories of climbing alpine with people for a first go…the good, the bad, and the ugly. You should just bail on the new partners and climb with me…you'll probably get to take the cruxes I said I was going to lead!

Lulzy, baby - you know I let you drag me up allll the routez.

Adam Burch wrote:Climbers, You are kicking around the idea of climbing with someone new. Route is a little committing. You're trying to get a sense of the other person; do you really want to tie in with this person? They tell you they lead 5.X What do you believe? In my experience, people tend to puff themselves up a bit, maybe a grade or two more than they're actually comfortable leading. Besides ego, why do people fib? Maybe that's the only reason?

I dont give a rats ass about ego or how hard I can climb.
If I sizing up a new climbing partner I never start out with anything harder than a 5.8. Once they have proven me that they are competent with anchor set and belay and are safe than I will push in to harder grades.

Aerili wrote:I tend to be skeptical until proven otherwise - unless the individual seems really down to earth and low key about their statements. For the most part, I prefer to do a get-to-know-ya day with a new partner whenever possible; that is, something well within both our abilities. I would rarely want to do a committing route with someone I had not climbed with before. Even if they can definitely climb grade "x", there is a lot to partner compatibility and style that is just as important and can make or break an experience. However, occasionally there are those partners with whom you just get an intuitive good vibe. Then go for it!

+1

Getting on the rock with a new partner, preferably starting on a less serious route or two, is really the only way to assess their abilities and possible compatibility for something longer. That's especially true if there may be issues of routefinding, simulclimbing, or having to move fast.

Once in a while it's obvious that someone is solid and that the personal dynamics will go just fine. The key then is to recognize it and enjoy the day.

Aerili wrote:I tend to be skeptical until proven otherwise - unless the individual seems really down to earth and low key about their statements. For the most part, I prefer to do a get-to-know-ya day with a new partner whenever possible; that is, something well within both our abilities. I would rarely want to do a committing route with someone I had not climbed with before. Even if they can definitely climb grade "x", there is a lot to partner compatibility and style that is just as important and can make or break an experience. However, occasionally there are those partners with whom you just get an intuitive good vibe. Then go for it!

+1

Getting on the rock with a new partner, preferably starting on a less serious route or two, is really the only way to assess their abilities and possible compatibility for something longer. That's especially true if there may be issues of routefinding, simulclimbing, or having to move fast.

Once in a while it's obvious that someone is solid and that the personal dynamics will go just fine. The key then is to recognize it and enjoy the day.

Locker wrote: Anyone climbing a rock can call themselves a "Rock Climber". Beyond that it's an EGO issue. I personally don't play the numbers game and am never impressed with "Spray". But "to each their own". ;-)

climbing is pretty special activity in that by doing it, you are that in noun form. climbing=climber.

i played a round of putt-putt the other day, so i'm a golfer.

i ride a beater bike to school, I'm a cyclist.

i talked to 2 girls yesterday, I'm a muthafvcking pimp!

I'm still new, but I say something like: I climb low tens, but I'm not that good. Even though I have only done sport 10s is because I know that I could climb 10s in trad. However, I don't own my own rack yet and I don't want to be responsible for the loss of someone else's gear on the chance that I find myself climbing a 10 I just can't get past. Two months in to climbing I thought I could climb any 5.7 only to be thrown off of a 5.7 mercilessly at Turkey Rocks. Since then I've been reluctant to think I can climb anything that bears them same grade as my max.

So I guess for me, my slight grade bumping is where I am focusing my efforts and it is at the forefront of my mind. And I haven't climbed a 10 I can't get past(eventually), yet...

Eliot Augusto wrote: I climb low tens, but I'm not that good. Even though I have only done sport 10s is because I know that I could climb 10s in trad.

Based on my experience, it's highly unlikely that what you think you know is actually the case. The thought of a trad 10 (even following as I can't place gear worth a damn) is a very daunting one to me.

Ben Circello wrote: Based on my experience, it's highly unlikely that what you think you know is actually the case. The thought of a trad 10 (even following as I can't place gear worth a damn) is a very daunting one to me.

You are right, I am confident in my abilities and maybe overly so. But that's why I don't push it. That said, I climb trad 5.9(flex) regularly and feel comfortable physically and mentally. I think that 5.10 will be a challenge not to be taken lightly in trad since I expect that I will fall a lot. Ultimately though, I climb because I thoroughly enjoy it. I'd rather climb a 6 pitch 5.7 than a 1 pitch 5.10 any day.

You can always take your potential partner that can't climb hard but can build an anchor on an easy multi pitch. It's no Longs Peak, but it beats not climbing.

Eliot Augusto wrote:I'm still new, but I say something like: I climb low tens, but I'm not that good. Even though I have only done sport 10s is because I know that I could climb 10s in trad. However, I don't own my own rack yet and I don't want to be responsible for the loss of someone else's gear on the chance that I find myself climbing a 10 I just can't get past. Two months in to climbing I thought I could climb any 5.7 only to be thrown off of a 5.7 mercilessly at Turkey Rocks. Since then I've been reluctant to think I can climb anything that bears them same grade as my max. So I guess for me, my slight grade bumping is where I am focusing my efforts and it is at the forefront of my mind. And I haven't climbed a 10 I can't get past(eventually), yet...

Sport climbing 5.10 and trad leading 5.10 is like riding a motorcycle in a deserted parking lot vs riding on a fast moving yet crowded LA Freeway.....both mechanically the same but the psychological impact of the consequences of a screw up can really mess with you. Try hanging off a 10.d roof fishing for a placement. I'd suggest you start at 5.5 trad when/if you get a rack.

WyomingSummits wrote: Sport climbing 5.10 and trad leading 5.10 is like riding a motorcycle in a deserted parking lot vs riding on a fast moving yet crowded LA Freeway.....both mechanically the same but the psychological impact of the consequences of a screw up can really mess with you. Try hanging off a 10.d roof fishing for a placement. I'd suggest you start at 5.5 trad when/if you get a rack.

I do appreciate the concern for safety. I currently lead 5.9 trad (mentor's gear). It's nice to know that people try and help more than "Yer gunna die!." I can push myself into 10c for sport, and I haven't made the attempt at 10a on trad. And roofs are like OW cracks for me. I can do them at 5.8, so I can only imagine trying to place gear hanging. I hate the desperation gear as it is, especially considering that once I place it the world seems ok again and my strenuous stance is no longer a strain. The mind is crazy.

^ sounds lame man where's the balls

directed to Wyoming summits

5.samadhi wrote:^ sounds lame man where's the balls directed to Wyoming summits

Lol.....safe and sound after every trip. Pushing grades/limits was 16+ years ago for me. I enjoy my family and I/they will never get anything out of me sticking my neck out on some 5.something just so i could say I did it. I've seen the toll that accidents by non pro athletes have on their families.....just isn't worth it to me personally. If it is to you....then by all means go for it. Who am I to judge? :)

Eliot Augusto wrote: I do appreciate the concern for safety. I currently lead 5.9 trad (mentor's gear). It's nice to know that people try and help more than "Yer gunna die!." I can push myself into 10c for sport, and I haven't made the attempt at 10a on trad. And roofs are like OW cracks for me. I can do them at 5.8, so I can only imagine trying to place gear hanging. I hate the desperation gear as it is, especially considering that once I place it the world seems ok again and my strenuous stance is no longer a strain. The mind is crazy.

Cool.....just making sure you weren't pushing things too fast. I hate to see people try to rush things or prove things just to have their lives ruined by injury/death. Let's face it, our sport is risky compared to most, regardless of what level we're climbing at. So many variables that we have less control over than we'd like. Thanks for not assuming I was just trying to tell you death was imminent. There are those who do that, but they probably do it because they have seen hundreds of gym noobs self destruct on a local crag...or worse....in the alpine. Gyms have helped push the sport to grades once thought impossible, but it also leads to alot of "athletes" rather than "climbers".....trust me, there's a big difference. Happy climbing!

Adam Burch wrote:Climbers, You are kicking around the idea of climbing with someone new. Route is a little committing. You're trying to get a sense of the other person; do you really want to tie in with this person? They tell you they lead 5.X What do you believe? In my experience, people tend to puff themselves up a bit, maybe a grade or two more than they're actually comfortable leading. Besides ego, why do people fib? Maybe that's the only reason?

Personally, I don't fib, I actually under report my ability because inevitably if I say I lead 5.7, someone decides we should do a 5.7 the first day, and if I don't climb well, I look like an idiot. We all have days where we just don't climb well. Likewise, I downgrade my follow because they can only be happy that I follow harder than stated.

But I think people fib because the higher you lead (or second) the more likely you will find a partner, and climbing is a sport that generally is best done in two's or three's.

For instance, if I list I lead 5.4 I'm not going to see many partner replies. if I say I lead 5.7, bamn, I'll see dozens.

It's precisely why I sort of quit climbing after my two good partners moved. I didn't want to deal with vetting dozens of climbers and dealing with the inherent risk that comes with climbing with new people.