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Crags near skagway

Original Post
Kris Holub · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 70

I'm going to be up in Skagway for a day in June and looking for somewhere to climb. The area page seems sparse so I'm hoping there is a local guidebook or additional areas/routes to hit up. Gear or sport routes are both great, ideally looking for anything 5.8-5.11. Does anyone know of other options in addition to what is listed on mountainproject.com/v/skagw… ?

FoamFinger _______ · · Rad Town, Not set (USA) · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 250

Your best bet would be to reach out the Bill Doctorman via MP. He did A LOT of route development in Skagway and he can give you detailed beta.
You can also wander over to the Alaska Mountain Guides shop and they would be happy to take you up ($$$) to their "private" crag that has a good bit of climbs in the range you are looking for.
If you you only have a day and you want to get as much climbing in as possible then going with AMG is probably your most convenient option as they have a really good site and know the area better than really anyone else.
Good Luck!

Kris Holub · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 70

What's the deal with the "private" crag? Is it just somewhat of a secret or will the AMG guides actively try to keep non-paying climbers off the routes? Not really interested in hiring a guide service and don't need to maximize the climbing, just hoping to find a good place to kill a day.

FoamFinger _______ · · Rad Town, Not set (USA) · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 250

Yeah they'll definitely discourage you from even walking up their trail. All of their routes have bolted/chained anchors and they leave tag-lines strung up so they can rig their routes very early in the morning, everyday. Most of the routes at their lower crag are fairly easy routes (up to 5.9ish), but the upper crag(s) supposedly have some much better (progressively harder) routes.
They have a really sweet setup though for a guide service, really couldn't imagine a better situation. As such they bring in about 80-odd people a day to the lower crag which has about 15-20 routes over 60 meter span. As you can imagine not a very big area so you would more than likely get run out of there as soon as you tried to walk-up.
The crag is also not entirely obvious from the road.
If I were you I would try to make a day of heading up above town, there's a sick peak above town on the south-side that has some pretty decent alpine-rock with a killer view. There'll more than likely be no one up there too...

Sarah Crosier · · Estes Park, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 76

I have lived in Skagway the past 3 summers and worked for Alaska Mountain Guides. If you are only going to be in town for one day, I would definitely go to Black Lakes Crag. There are more routes than are listed on facebook. There are a good mix of sport and trad routes, and several are a mix of trad and sport. There is a good 5.9 sport route/ some say 10a called catholic school girl that is furthest right at crag. There is also a easy 5.7 trad route. Many of the harder climbs can be easily top roped by climbing an easier route and set up from the top. There are a couple fun, but hard mixed routes on the 'red wall.' Jackel and Hyde is one of my favorite routes there, but would be a sketchy lead in the beginning, because the gear is so thin. Goes at a hard 11. Shown in the photo clay meir posted.

Feel free to message me for more info!

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Sarah Crosier wrote:\ If you are only going to be in town for one day, I would definitely go to Black Lakes Crag. info!
Multiple people have left in an ambulance from the Black Lake Crag? That place can be very dangerous! The rock is better in Dyea and further towards the Yukon border, Golden Canyon is good. Like Foamfinger said, there are some cool peaks to tag out of town and on the pass.
If you have the bling it is well worth it to fly in, even for a day, to the Denver glacier, Ferebee Glacier or the Juneau Ice Field.
FoamFinger _______ · · Rad Town, Not set (USA) · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 250

A few of the AMG Guides have left their yard in Ambulances, shit happens.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
FoamFinger wrote:A few of the AMG Guides have left their yard in Ambulances, shit happens.
Ha Ha! It's a right of passage in AK to "survive the adventure." I'm just as guilty.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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