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TR Soloing - Static vs. Dynamic

Original Post
Robert D. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 15

My understanding is that the way most folks TR solo is with two progress capture pulleys, usually minitraxions, and one static rope. As I understand the risks involved, the biggies are (1) the pulleys not capturing and (2) the rope getting cut over an edge. (Human error ignored.)

My question is this: is it better to TR solo on a dynamic or static rope to address these risks? If your mini's fail to catch, and you fall to your knot, a dynamic rope would be the ticket because the impact force on a static line would be pretty jarring. But, using a dynamic rope will also increase the risk of abrasion over an edge whenever you weight the rope, something a static rope alleviates.

So how do you weigh these risks, oh wise internet users? Better to rely on your minitraxions (which should be redundant) catching you, or better to have a third fail-safe, but increase the risk of abrading, and possibly cutting, your line? I know some people advocate a second rope, and I suppose that is an option too, though not something I'm super psyched on.

Thanks!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Two dynamic ropes, one device, pad the edge.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

buy a quality pmi 11 rope and pad the edge.
go from two mini-traxs (or whatever dumbass idea) to one ushba or one gri.

really, if that one person that failed a rope with an ushba, had actually used a rope worth a shit, there would be none of this other idiot rc.com discussion

Robert D. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 15

--Buff, a couple clarification questions, if you're game:

(1.) The Ushba Basic 10.05 Ascender looks comparable to the minitrax, why do you like it more? (does it feed better?)

(I only mentioned the minitrax because Steph Davis ( highinfatuation.com/blog/ro…) and Matt Samet ( gearinstitute.com/getschool… ), not to mention some of my friends, like that method. Not trying to name-drop, just citing my sources.)

(2.) I suspect you like the gri as a backup because you can lower back down and do laps. Is that right?

(3.) You mean an 11mm static line, right?

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

use an older dynamic climbing rope in good condition ... no need to buy a new rope

if you are using static and a single device that fails onto a knot, or if slack builds up for whatever reason, it might not be pretty

petzl self belay

as to edges, extend the anchors and/or pad them ... with 10mm+ ropes with the proper precautions im not too worried

also with climbs less than 30m, simply fold the rope in half of course for independent lines

the ushba can fail to lock if pressure is applied in just the right place ... i own one

;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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