So I climbed at the pipeline in Maple last weekend...I noticed many of the 5.11 routes there have 5.7-5.10 climbing above them to the top of the cliff. I know the overhanging moves at the bottom may be considered 'cooler' but I wonder if there is a compelling reason not to continue these lines to the top of the wall?
It seems like extending some of them (honey bucket, lip venom for example) would improve the climbs by tacking on an additional, fun looking 40 ft of climbing even if the hard moves are at the bottom.
I've never placed a bolt and I haven't climbed in maple enough to feel justified in cleaning and bolting these extensions myself, any developers out there got any wisdom on why these routes don't go to the top?
The only reason I can think of is that if they kept the bolting as close as the bottom part most people would run out of draws before the chains ;)
zoso
·
Apr 14, 2014
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 790
"...cleaning and bolting these extensions..."
There's your answer. Cleaning can sometimes be quite significant.
Probably the main reason is the climbing changes character and grade significantly, and, combined with the effort and expense of adding length, its easier to just climb similar grades across the street, so to speak.
Also, those lower angle walls do tend to spall off rocks from time-to-time. From a safety aspect, limiting traffic to the steep overhanging bits is more reasonable for folks milling around below those routes.
there are a dozen 3-star moderate 57 route within a 10 minute walk from that area so why bolt the shitextension on to really cool overhanging routes like that?
like you seriously did honey bucket and then wanted to do something 5.7 slab right after that on top of it? just curious?
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