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What do you want to see in climbing films?

Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6

More alpine, ice, hard trad, expeditions, adventures. Way too many climbing films that depict this stuff have way too much editing though, trying to focus on artsy shots and the camping stuff rather than the actual technical side of the climbing. It seems the climbing is usually shortened, never showing the details on what makes the actual climb exciting: editing out gear placements, the sketching around, long moves sequences, etc. Of course this is gonna be boring to alot of people, but how many people would sit and watch the entire three hours of Ueli's Eiger climb in real time, rather than the ten or so minutes we get to see of him running up snow ramps?

Scott Sampietro · · Bloomfield, CT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 80

gunks cluster-f*%ks

or just a film on the gunks

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

I like films with a bit of a story line and some drama. I think that's why I like the intense solo/runout climbing flicks, not because I want to see someone get hurt but because I really like the intensity of what's going on. Watching someone fall off the same hard move a couple times and then send gets old. Watching that emotional conflict unfold as someone figures out the moves is a lot more interesting.

That street skiing video was really cool. The filming was really good and it had lots of movement and cool shots.

Some history around the route or the relation between the climber and that particular route all develops the story and that's big to me. Just a "so and so came, saw, and conquered X" is lame because there is no story. We know what's going to happen before we even see who produced the film. I also like seeing routes that I'm interested in or that are close to home. I mean it is cool to see someone on some untouched swath of rock in the middle of the wilderness somewhere I'll probably never go but I can relate more to something in Eldo or the Black. I think that's why I liked The Sharp End because I'd seen or read about some of those climbs. It didn't spray beta but gave some perspective on the routes and it kept me more interested because I might actually try those climbs some day.

ryan albery · · Cochise and Custer · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 290

I'd love to see a documentary along the lines of the book American Rock. Analogous to the surf films Riding Giants and Step into Liquid, an historical journey with interviews and stories, pictures and clips that don't focus on any specific avenue, but rather the evolution of climbing as a whole. A film that expresses the joy, hardships, and the life of climbing.

Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Brian Snider wrote:Sometimes I wish there was movies about other weekend trad wannabees sketched out, 3 feet above there last piece on a 5.5 in the Valley.
I'm totally with this.... specially the unedited 45 minute section where noob has to contemplate stepping onto a 5.7 friction slab with a 15ft. walk to the first bolt. all the while his belayer has busted out a jetboil and made himself a cup of coffee, smoked a joint and ate a sandwich.

And then 20 minutes face to face with him explaining what was going on in his head as he made that first step.
Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Less talk about super awesome trips to climb in russia only to find out they spent all that money of pulling permits and travel to show some hot chicks bouldering in a forest?

Also... need videos of climbing instruction on TR crags.... that shit is so comedy to me.

Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Dahlia Von Danger Wall Climbing super ninja

youtube.com/watch?v=csWtmoK…

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Lots of interviews with climbers talking about how "futuristic" their sport projects are. Also, I need to hear the phrase "the next level" at least 25 times throughout the film.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,781

I only like watching films featuring trad climbing, plus for alpine, plus for super long and super remote, double plus for never done before. I worry about what it says about me as a person, but also, plus for suffer.

Rogerlarock Mix · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

Still waiting for 'Last Wild Mountain', or whatever they're calling it now. Jeeze it's been years...

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100
ben jammin wrote:An entire video about noobs in Boulder Canyon and the shitshows that ensue.. That would be SICK brah...
Fo SHo!! #Epicfail

ben jammin wrote:I want to see the most unique trad lines out there, not just another super-human pulling on tiny holds or climbing a thin crack. I want to see awful offwidth (hats off to wideboyz) and scary runout traverse leads. and some leg shakin slab first ascents
Shit, should of been in Sequoia NP this weekend. A friend and I did two AWESOME new lines that had REALLY unique climbing. One was 800+ ft and other 600+ ft of climbing. From balancing on slabby face, to big chicken heads and to a #EPICGNAR 60 M offwifth that is entered with some sick crimping traverse from a cool hand crack. And you top out big domes with a view of the Watchtower and High Siera. Sender films were not videotaping though :)
rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

The incorporation of hyper-baric chambers for high altitude sport routes.

DanielRich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 5

I disagree with some of the comments. I really like the V15 and 5.15 vids but I like it the most when these are local areas that I can go climb.

I want a bunch of 5.15 here in the US where I can go see the route even if I won't be able to climb it without a jetpack.

Related to that is videos are most fun when I know something about the person and can connect to them so climbing vids must have a certain percentage of the climber talking instead of sending. Explaining the beta is cool because then I can imagine myself doing the route which might be as close as I ever get.

Paul Leverich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

After watching the DLFA project I would like see more like that. The Vulgarians or the Stone masters would be good.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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