Accident on Manic Crack in NM

not really

Kerr, I just wanted to give you a sincere "Thank You" for sharing your experience on a public forum. Despite the jerks and haters, I think a lot of us can learn a lot by sharing our near-misses, accidents and mistakes. You're a brave soul for going public with your misfortune, and I really admire your grit.

The climbing community would be a much better place if there were more people, like you, willing to put aside their ego and share information on their accident or near-miss.

Thanks again for being brave and helping the rest of us learn by discussing your accident.

I hope you're healing well!

Jonathan Awerbuch wrote:ironic geartrade.com/item/366702/m…

Haha. How on earth did you find that and make the connection with this thread?

I don't see how something i posted on gear trade months ago has any relevance to this. at all.

Kerr Adams wrote:I don't see how something i posted on gear trade months ago has any relevance to this. at all.

It's just a dumb little coincidence, more funny to me because my longest whipper to date was on that very cam, and it held...keeping me off the ground. I think I took it out to dinner that night as a thank you.

If it's still for sale I'll give ya $20 bucks for it...

I was browsing through the gear trade climbing section, like I do, and that little cam caught my eye. And then I noticed the seller. "Huh. where else have I seen that name?" It took me a minute. But I've been following this thread with interest, and put it together.

Kerr, the only way this is relevant is that if you had been climbing on the TCUs instead of the x4's, it is remotely possible that they would have held the fall. Of course, there's no way you could have known that beforehand. But in hindsight it is a textbook example of irony.

It is nothing to take personally. But of course, I can't blame you for being sore (pun intended) after all the shit the internet gawkers have given you on this thread.

Kerr is there any update on what BD had to say about your X4's?

Chinese made junk show.

never trust a microcam ... place it ... but dont depend on a single one if you can help it

as to walking ... the very flexible nature of the aliens reduces the likehood of that IME

personally i like zeros with the extendible slings ...

ive also noticed that 3 lobed cams such as the c3s and TCUs will often rotate back into the line of the fall if they move perpendicular ... not recommended of course, but the 'swivel' easier which can be good and bad ...

microcams pull .. its a fact of trad climbing ... all it takes is the slightest variation in the rock of the slightest movement of the cam into a "bad" position

What do you mean by shearing on the back of the lobe? The picture isn't clear to me.

bearbreeder wrote:never trust a microcam ... place it ... but dont depend on a single one

I hear this a lot, but what is a microcam? Anything under 3/4" or 1/2"?

Keithb00ne wrote: I hear this a lot, but what is a microcam? Anything under 3/4" or 1/2"?

modern definition i would say is anything below finger size...so grey, purple tcu size or equivalent. I think the term came into use marketing wise with the old .4-.1 BD single stem camalots. Though i dont think anyone would consider the .4 or .3 today a micro cam.

I'm still not seeing anything special about these x4's or how they behave differently from other pieces. None of them have fallen apart or broken, simply pulled from placements.

The two smallest x4's cover the majority of the C3 range from 0-000. The 000 C3 is rated for aid only. The .2x4 is definitely in the micro category.

Keithb00ne wrote: I hear this a lot, but what is a microcam? Anything under 3/4" or 1/2"?

i consider anything finger size and below "micro" ... theres been pulls and at least one video of up to purple camalot pulling on supposedly decent placements

once it gets down to purple/blue TCU size and below its a total cr@pshoot on whether it holds or not IMO

keep in mind the 3 pulled cams of the OP are blue and gray camalot sizes ...

if you can get the same size nut in a good constriction on solid rock, id whip on that all day long

;)

mine broke..

Kerr Adams wrote:mine broke..

from the pictures you provided on this forum your cams didn't break by the standard set by prior breaking cams (aka alien heads popping off, end coming off Fixe alien more recently, OP link cams w/ fractured lobes)...that being said like you posted "we're all gonna die" so why debate this at all. Hope you're healing well!

One of the warranty guys sent me a very long email and very politely, said that I did not know how to place gear.

Kerr Adams wrote:One of the warranty guys sent me a very long email and very politely, said that I did not know how to place gear.

end of thread