Mountain Project Logo

Add a bolt to "Flying Dutchman" on the Sail?

Aaron Rashaw · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 330

Sam-

What about TRing it so many times that you can do "the moves in your sleep" then put the rack on and give it a go? What about finding a belayer that is willing to run backwards if you peel on lead? What about using screamers? What about scouring the face up there for any new modern gear placements? What about not committing and just TRing because your not up to the mental task, and admiring the ones who have committed. I know I haven't committed...yet.

Aaron Rashaw · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 330
Geir wrote:As an alternative, hang a static line from the top with a loop tied where you would like pro. Then lead the route and clip the static line as your piece. You get to lead it and the route isn't changed. Best of both worlds.
It's crossed my mind, no harm done.
Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Aaron R wrote:What about finding a belayer that is willing to run backwards if you peel on lead?
The most likely reason a leader would peel would be due to that detached flake finally giving up the ghost. Any belayer will be running backwards real fast if that happens. Hopefully while still belaying...
Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

After some serious reflection, talking to the local climbing gurus at REI and Momentum's front desk, as well as reading "The Rock Warrior's Way," I've decided to spend two months growing a beard along with a daily training regimen of drinking gratuitous amounts of craft beer.

Then, the send.

Sans bolt.

I'll report back on my success.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391
Sam Cannon wrote:After some serious reflection, talking to the local climbing gurus at REI and Momentum's front desk, as well as reading "The Rock Warrior's Way," I've decided to spend two months growing a beard along with a daily training regimen of drinking gratuitous amounts of craft beer. Then, the send. Sans bolt. I'll report back on my success.
The beard will make all the difference!
Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Ha! Are you referring to this article? -- bbc.com/news/science-enviro…

Everyone knows beards are always in style in the mountains ("peak" beard, then, in another sense).

EDIT: Just checked your hyperlink and yes, that is what you were referring to. The BBC article I posted is also worth a read, however.

Also, I can't grow a beard anyways. I just wait for the Mormon missionary look to come back in and I'm set.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
OldManRiver wrote: saw your work with Jacob on Notch - nice stuff man!
Sam, you're telling me you just banged out a route on Notch Peak without dying and you're concerned about a minor runout 5.8?
You are doing it wrong.
gf9318 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Take the whip!

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Boissal - dammit man, you're right. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "Add a bolt to "Flying Dutchman" on the Sail?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.