Top Rope Anchor Question?
|
So me and my climbing partner are at a disagreement on how to setup a top rope anchor while sport climbing. After having setup a self equalizing configuration with the sling I use one locking biner for the rope to slide through. He says this is dangerous and that I need to use two locking biners with opposing gates. I've always been under the impression that you only use two biners opposing if they aren't locking biners. After the conversation I checked in Freedom of the Hills and can't find anywhere that mentions it being dangerous to only use one locker. All the pics in there even show only one locker. As always, any insight into the matter would be greatly appreciated. Trolls need not apply. Cheers. |
|
Two is better than one for any anchor, locking or not, IMO. Think SERENE. |
|
This is one of those gear nerd questions, but if it will salvage the relationship between your partner and you then the community shall respond. |
|
sport climbs...two bolts....two draws, biners opposed...done. |
|
It sounds like you have one sling...Which I'd argue is a more-likely point of failure. Given everything is rigged properly, one locker is fine. More is better, but one is fine. One sling, one locker a the masterpoint is fine. |
|
i use one locker and one non locker is this situation, but make sure the other biner is opposed to the locker. Some people will say that you need two lockers. Some people will say that you need three non-locking biners on top. |
|
It's a matter of preference. I personally prefer the sliding x with 1 single large locker for the rope and two regular biner sized lockers for the bolts. I feel that is a bit overkill 99% of the time, but there might be that 1% I have to worry about. |
|
If you have two lockers, why not use them? If your thinking redundancy, there is a pretty clear flaw there.. Especially in a sport climbing setting... If I have two lockers, I'm always going to use two. |
|
Climbing is dangerous, to some degree, no matter how you do it. Whether you have one or two lockers. Two is probably safer than one. Personally, if there are two bolts, I use two regular quickdraws (non-lockers) if we're only doing a few laps. If we're gonna be top-roping the route for longer, than I use two lockers at the master point (maybe one locker and one non-locker if I'm trying to conserve gear, I typically have more non-lockers). I almost never use a sliding x and if I do I tie extension limting knots. But, none of that matters, it's just personal preference, there are no rules. If your partner isn't comfortable with something and you can't talk them into being comfortable with it, than either rig your anchors so they are comfortable or find a different partner. I'm assuming you're not uncomfortable with two lockers... |
|
Norm3 wrote:Two is better than one for any anchor, locking or not, IMO. Think SERENE.but 3 is better than 2 |
|
One thing no one has mentioned yet is that two biners (lockers or not) are better than one for how the rope runs on top rope. One biner is just isn't enough and tends to wear the rope more than it should. I read something on it in one of John Longs books a few years ago, but can't quite remember today. He gave a good explanation as to the what and why, not just for the SRENE nature. |
|
Craig's point is correct as far as the rope running better over two rather than one biner. Redundancy is always the best bet if there is any doubt. All of the above suggestions will also work..you don't even need a dynamic rope for toproping, but I would say 2-at the rope connection point is best. |
|
^^^ |
|
Alex Bury wrote:^^^ Using two lockers, or better yet three ovals (two outer gates opposed in respect to the inner one), creates a more stable platform for the rope. Using a single locker makes it more likely that the master point might shift during lowering which can pin the rope. As far the one or two lockers thing goes...the standard practice for guides and other professionals is to always use two, gates opposed so long as neither gate is being pushed into a protrusion or edge of rock.but 4 lockers is even better than 3 |
|
I've always used two opposite and opposed lockers or three non-locking biners |
|
NickinCO wrote: but 4 lockers is even better than 3Sorry thats not right either. Building anchors efficiently is also part of the deal.... When you use two lockers, try to use two pearshapes. They are symmetrical and can be opposed without losing their shape. Using locking D's will work but there will be a bit more friction and you will wear through them noticeably quicker. |
|
Alex Bury wrote: Sorry thats not right either. Building anchors efficiently is also part of the deal....I can clip 4 carabiners at lightning speed! |
|
NickinCO wrote: I can clip 4 carabiners at lightning speed!Its not just about how fast you can "clip them" its also about not hauling too much gear around. It adds up especially when there is a third class approach to the top. Bringing just what is necessary is important (assuming you are committed to being efficient, perhaps youre cool with gumby mode, your call). |
|
Alex Bury wrote: Its not just about how fast you can "clip them" its also about not hauling too much gear around. It adds up especially when there is a third class approach to the top. Bringing just what is necessary is important (assuming you are committed to being efficient, perhaps youre cool with gumby mode, your call).as this is in the general climbing section and not the beginner forum.. you aren't sensing my sarcasm. Now dammit, this is 'Merica and more is always better. |
|
Locker wrote:" Two is better than one for any anchor, locking or not, IMO. Think SERENE. but 3 is better than 2 " I prefer to use 17 because it's safer. ;-)thank you! someone after my own heart. |
|
This is a good instructional video: |