Birdsboro Quarry in PA

I was thinking about checking this place out, but had a question. I've been to their website, but I wasn't sure how you differentiate sections? Since there's no real photos of the routes, just location map, how do you know if you're on the correct route or not?

Thanks.

A lot of the walls are broken up by areas that are unclimbable or variations in terrain height/etc. There are usually pictures of the popular climbs and then I just count the routes left or right of the popular lines. A lot of the descriptions are pretty specific and I haven't run into too many issues identifying the climbs.

And there will likely be tons of people you can ask for pointers

How packed does this place get on weekends?

Potential to be super packed, not guaranteed of course. I stopped going during the nice weather times because too many people. It was a big turn off to me to see people argueing, showing off, etc. My experience and opinion is definitly check it out, its not the worst place to climb, but unless youre immediately local its not worth your time. Much better places with alot less people are around!

The Stoned Master wrote: its not the worst place to climb, but unless youre immediately local its not worth your time. Much better places with alot less people are around!

Boo hiss Matt and Stone Master

The place is a kick. There are over 140 bolted lines from 5.3 to 5.14d. There's slab, crack, overhung and even some drilled pockets. Single pitch and two pitch climbs. It's an old quarry, so YES, there is some choss. Get over it. Makes climbing that much more fun. I agree, wear a helmet. Not just for the choss, but, the cliff is easily accessible from the top which makes for some tempting rock throwing by some of the kids. ALthough accessible from the top, it's not a top rope destination since the bolts are typically very far below the cliff top outs.

You can camp at French Creek State Park or you can do some primitive camping at the Bird. (no running water, but, we do have a porta potty). Be discrete if you choose to camp at the Bird.

With Safe Harbor now open, I think SE PA climbers split their time between the two areas. I really don't think it gets overly crowded on any given weekend.

I am a Bird steward, so let me know if you have any more questions. There is a link on the reading rocks site that will get you the latest route map. There is certainly plenty of climbing...more than you can accomplish in a weekend.

gblauer, you mean there is crack at the bird now?? I guess i missed it when i climbed there... or did someone bust out a saw ?!?! If so, please include pictures; if not, i will donate a blade to the cause.

Trust me fellas you don't want anything to do with the labor of sawing a crack.

I used to climb there quite a bit when I lived in PA(In Boulder now). The biggest issue when I last was there was there was quite a bit of forcing in new routes in places where there should not be routes(dirty, too close together, chossy, etc). That being said, there are some decent lines(Zorro sticks out as a good one as I recall) and worth going if you are a local. Don't miss the short, fun slabs at the bottom too!

Also...I don't recall anything harder than soft .13a there, so they must have added new routes? Listed anywhere?

Rick Mix said: Trust me fellas you don't want anything to do with the labor of sawing a crack.

Ha! You old Bellefonte saw veteran! Your post made me laugh. I hope all is well man.

Doin well friend! Now if it would just stop being winter I could get out to the crags! Still working on our project.

Brassmonkey wrote:Rick mix, are you the guy responsible for THE best crack in pa that resides in bellefonte?

Yes, I'm the guy. Two days sawing, another day or so drilling. And I felt obligated to bolt the thing for obvious reasons. Seriously hard and dangerous work. Ever run a Stihl demo saw on rappell? Anti-fun.
But hey, we needed a 5.11 finger crack.

Brassmonkey wrote:Yeah I'd like to see that crack also! And since when does choss make sport climbing more fun? Uhhhhhh.......

Just walk around and look for the oppressive number of bolts.
Pick a line and go. It can be quite fun if you like clip ups.

And for heavens sake wear a helmet there. Unless it's changed in the 5 years since I've been there, things are constantly falling down from the top.

gblauer wrote: THere is a climb called "Crackalicious"...it could be lead on gear. In fact it has. It's bolted.