Nepal

Hello,

I am heading over to Nepal for a job from September 12 - October 26th. Once my work finishes up, I will be staying in Nepal until January 1st. I plan to do the Annapurna trek, and then I am hoping to pursue the summit of an easier mountain. I have looked into Larkya Peak and Mera Peak, but I am very open to suggestions. I am not interested in joining a group to lug me up the mountain, but more in finding a competent partner to attempt this with.

My alpine skills are limited, although I am well versed in trad climbing. Larkya Peak and Mera peak both interested me because they are very minimally technical. Email me if you will be in Nepal at that time or are interested in joining up with me!

I also scoped some sport and trad climbing on some cliffs leading up to Everest base camp. Either way, I would love to do some climbing or mountaineering in Nepal and I am looking for a solid knowledgeable partner to accompany me.

Are you doing the circuit or the trek to basecamp? Can't make it over this year but the weather around Annapurna is great in October.

Can't help with the peak, but Annapurna circuit is maybe my favorite life adventure though it was a long time ago now. Nepal is my favorite country for culture and mountain travel. Such a wonderful and beautiful place and people.

I just wanted to say that I'm psyched for you. Enjoy!

Are you looking for climbing objectives in the Pokhara or Khumbu Valley? Since you mentioned both the Annapurna Trek, and then some cragging "near" EBC.

Depending on where you're looking to spend your time (I'm deeply biased towards the Khumbu), Lobuche East, Gokyo Ri (and the accompanying lakes trek), or Kongde Ri are all really great. I personally would stray Mera as its very reminiscent of whole EBC-Island Peak trekking business. But Both Lobuche East, and Kongde Ri are technically easy and less frequently climbed, yet still very accessible from Lukla/Namche.

Either way you'll have a blast out there! And be aware of the monkeys at Swayambhunath, they will attack you! :P

The mountains of Nepal are pretty alpine.
If you are truly lacking in alpine experience, you should consider obtaining the experience this summer.
Alternatively, you could try to find a partner who would basically be acting as your guide.
Or you could work through a Nepali agent and actualy hire a guide.
You will probably have to do the latter anyway, as the peaks you mentioned are official trekking peaks and you will need a permit and guide to legally climb them.
Two months is plenty of time to visit both the Annapurna circuit and Everest Base Camp if you wish to do so.
Both these areas can be visited via unsupported teahouse trekking. Alternatively, you might look at the Manaslu circuit, which is wilder, but I believe you must hire a guide for the trip. Not that big a draw back or expense, honestly. You can still stay in teahouses and avoid some of the expense and hassle of a fully outfitted trip.
Larkya Peak is near the end of the manaslu circuit, but I believe it is more challenging than you think and I have heard it may have some significant avalanche risk. Not sure if that applies in early winter though.
It would be easy to continue the AC after completing Manaslu, and then you could attempt Dhampus Peak, which is on the Dhaulagiri circuit, but accesible from south of Jomsom. It is supposed to be an easy walk up, but isn't officially open to climbing. Some agencies advertise trips there however! You could probably hire staff and supplies in Jomsom.
You might want to look at Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree nepal forum, which has plenty of useful advice about trekking esp single female solo trekking. Not much that's very useful for climbing unfortunately.
We were very happy with Ice-land trekking, who set up a private Chulu Far East attempt for our family last spring at a reasonable cost.
ice-landtrekking.com/
Or you might want to look into the all female 3 Sisters Trekking 3sistersadventuretrek.com/
Feel free to PM for any questions.

I did the Annapurna Circuit 20 yrs. ago and it was incredible. However, it's no longer just a footpath. A good portion of the former trail is now a road and others have described the trek as spending a lot of time dodging motorcycles and trucks. I'd do a little more research and confirm since, if true, it would radically change the experience (for the worse).

I know folks who have done the Everest Base Camp trek and done Island Peak along the way by hiring a local guide. If your alpine skills are limited, don't get the impression you can go and figure it out as you go. I thought, having alpine experience, that I would be able to lug along a pair of crampons and axe and climb the peak above the Thorang La (Thorang Ri?). But you get out there and you palpably feel the remoteness and sense of commitment, and I'm glad I didn't bother.

P.S. Me and the monkeys at Swayambhu got along just fine.

I'm heading to Australia for the summer, but Nepal is on my radar for the Fall and I am interested in doing some alpine climbing as well. The Nepalese Mountaineering Association just drastically reduced fees for climbing so it has never been a better time to climb. Here's a link to the NMA website with details about fees and requirements for climbing in Nepal.
nepalmountaineering.org/not…
What kind of experience at altitude do you have? How much and what kind of alpine climbing experience do you have?

I am definitely stoked to do the Annapurna trail and I already looked into cragging it at several different locations.

I have many trepidation's about doing a mountain in Nepal, knowing that they are often looked at as the real deal. But I think with the right partner, it is possible. If I were to commit to a mountain, I would look into a crevasse rescue class.

My experience: minimal. I have done some alpine climbing but never with an ice axe or crampons. I am living in Yosemite for the month of August and doing three routes up the Diamond in Colorado come this September. I am working in nepal for 6 weeks and then doing the Annapurna trek. I spend every moment I can on big walls and trad, but that being said, I live in a desert currently and my experience with snow and ice is...well...minimal.

I lived in Australia all last year and spent every spare moment at Arapiles or in the Grampians!!

The AC does have a road most of the way now. Sections of the trek have been re-routed to avoid traffic, but it is changing in character. Good cell coverage most everywhere, for example.
A helpful site nepal-dia.de/int__England/E…

You should really look into the Manaslu trek. Here's one website- manaslucircuittrek.com

It joins the AC at Darapani IIRC, then you could trek the AC to Jomsom and fly out, or do the full circuit from there and even visit the sanctuary at the end of the trip.

If you get a chance to visit Tilicho tal it's worth it. Spectacular setting below the Great Barrier. To cross the Meso kanto la requires a tent and stove however, but you can backtrack to the AC and do the Thorung la. Likewise, the Nar Phu side trip is worthwhile and you might be able to do it as a teahouse trek now, esp if you skip going over the Kang la.

Get the Lonely Planet Nepal trekking book form your local library.

The snow/ice climbing on most of the trekking peaks near the AC isn't too demanding. You could certainly manage if you have a competent, attentive leader.

There are alpine snow/ice routes in the Sierra not too far from Yosemite, I believe. Take a long weekend and learn something?

@FoamFinger Looks like they have expanded the list of trekking peaks. The prices don't seem that different from what I recall from last year, but it's really encouraging to see new peaks added.
Do you know if they've changed the fee structure for expedition peaks? I couldn't find that info on my quick review of the NMA site.

Sad to see the roads go so far now. I guess that's progress for you, but it takes away the magic of that region. Makes me feel lucky that I did the trek before there was even a road to Jomsom.

Yes, I was accosted by the Swayumbu monkeys too walking up the back side through the woods with some fresh fruit. They got the fruit.

Well if you can find a wall partner and are willing to bring up a slightly larger than Alpine rack, the walls across the valley from Pheriche & the NW ridge's face of Lobuche West offer some adventure climbs sans crevasse, or *ice experience necessary. There's no "established" routes though, just a few odd bolts from previous excursions. Be wary of rock though, its classic high-altitude, remote, no often climbed shit. Imagine Valley scale, and Queen Creek/Superstition rock quality. FUN!

I just looked one of the monkeys in the eye and it jumped on me. I guess I was asking for it..

Mark E Dixon wrote: @FoamFinger Looks like they have expanded the list of trekking peaks. The prices don't seem that different from what I recall from last year, but it's really encouraging to see new peaks added. Do you know if they've changed the fee structure for expedition peaks? I couldn't find that info on my quick review of the NMA site.

I honestly don't know much as I haven't been to Nepal, just what I have read on the NMA site. I did see an article a few weeks ago that said that the Expedition peaks fee structure had been drastically reduced to the point now that Everest is something like $10k per group?! Probably not that low, but the quoted $$$ was surprisingly (alarmingly more like it) low.

There are some great hikes and scrambling peaks in the Annapurna foothills area, but if you have no ice or glacier experience you should really think twice about pursuing any of the "trekking" peaks. Some of the trekking peaks are bigger and more difficult than Denali, would you go to Denali for your first mountain climb unassisted? Rock climbing has little applicability to climbing over there, but by all means go and experience the most incredible mountains on the planet.

Elias wrote:Well if you can find a wall partner and are willing to bring up a slightly larger than Alpine rack, the walls across the valley from Pheriche & the NW ridge's face of Lobuche West offer some adventure climbs sans crevasse, or *ice experience necessary. There's no "established" routes though, just a few odd bolts from previous excursions. Be wary of rock though, its classic high-altitude, remote, no often climbed shit. Imagine Valley scale, and Queen Creek/Superstition rock quality. FUN! I just looked one of the monkeys in the eye and it jumped on me. I guess I was asking for it..

Elias - that sounds pretty awesome - have you been there before? I am planning on doing some mountains but I don't want to lose all of my climbing strength! I would love to get some good rock climbing in as well.

Also - I was definitely attacked by a monkey at swayambhunath... I brought food in (dumb american move). I used to live in India and traveled to Nepal on my own for several weeks. I was just hired to guide a bunch of teens around Nepal so I am heading back! Figured I would try my luck at some more intense climbing endeavors this time.

Also - Queen Creek style meaning it destroys your fingers?

Mark E Dixon wrote:The AC does have a road most of the way now. Sections of the trek have been re-routed to avoid traffic, but it is changing in character. Good cell coverage most everywhere, for example. A helpful site nepal-dia.de/int__England/E… You should really look into the Manaslu trek. Here's one website- manaslucircuittrek.com It joins the AC at Darapani IIRC, then you could trek the AC to Jomsom and fly out, or do the full circuit from there and even visit the sanctuary at the end of the trip. If you get a chance to visit Tilicho tal it's worth it. Spectacular setting below the Great Barrier. To cross the Meso kanto la requires a tent and stove however, but you can backtrack to the AC and do the Thorung la. Likewise, the Nar Phu side trip is worthwhile and you might be able to do it as a teahouse trek now, esp if you skip going over the Kang la. Get the Lonely Planet Nepal trekking book form your local library. The snow/ice climbing on most of the trekking peaks near the AC isn't too demanding. You could certainly manage if you have a competent, attentive leader. There are alpine snow/ice routes in the Sierra not too far from Yosemite, I believe. Take a long weekend and learn something? @FoamFinger Looks like they have expanded the list of trekking peaks. The prices don't seem that different from what I recall from last year, but it's really encouraging to see new peaks added. Do you know if they've changed the fee structure for expedition peaks? I couldn't find that info on my quick review of the NMA site.

I am teaming up with a strong mountaineer partner/guide for the duration of my trip. Definitely feeling more comfortable doing some smaller goals - I plan on trying to get some alpine/ice experience in the Sierras before I leave - do you have any experience with other small snow/ice routes in Nepal to recommend?

Hannahlily wrote: I am teaming up with a strong mountaineer partner/guide for the duration of my trip. Definitely feeling more comfortable doing some smaller goals - I plan on trying to get some alpine/ice experience in the Sierras before I leave - do you have any experience with other small snow/ice routes in Nepal to recommend?

PM me if I don't get a chance to answer at greater length on this forum.

If I was going back to the AC, I'd consider climbing the unnamed peaks described in this article-
summitpost.org/dazed-and-co…

Alternatively, Pisang is a very handsome peak and probably has potential for new moderate routes.

There are so many experienced travel agents here in Nepal. we would be happy to helping you. nepaltourinformation.com/

Getting on some ice and snow in the Sierra wouldn't hurt, but the type of climbing you'll be doing is generally more glaciated. Definitely more Cascades type stuff than Sierra. Also, going with a more experienced partner doesn't help that much if, say, he or she falls in a crevasse or gets hurt. Then you're both potentially screwed. Having said, route/peak selection may be critical. Look at all the unqualified yahoos on Everest. Their abilities seem to be limited to writing big checks yet most of them appear to do fine with a lot of hand holding.

Also, Pisang Peak, though beautiful (you walk by it on the Annapurna Circuit) has some objective hazards. It has a big death toll by trekking peak standards after an avalanche wiped out the standard route, killing about 6 climbers in the process, most of whom probably thought there were safe climbing 'just' a trekking peak.

I say go for it. It may be your only chance to climb there. However, if you're investing the time and money to go to Nepal, it may be worth the cash to plop down for climb/crevasse work course with Rainier guides, and then do something like Mt. Baker while you're up there. With that experience under your belt, you may be able climb something far more interesting overseas.

Any update on your plans? Are you sticking around the Annapurna region?

Hey Hannah,

I'm heading to Nepal in a couple of weeks and will be living/working in Accham, Nepal until December 14th..then I'll be free for a few weeks and am looking for partners to climb and trek with. I know it's towards the end of your trip but if you're looking to do a shorter trip, I'd love to team up!

Eliza

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