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Removing draws from a route

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Hi all....

Over the years I have learned that there is no best way to get down.

It all dependes on the situation.

I really love the sport anchors at Cochese, Scott Ayres has these anchors that one can not be lowered from! Last climber must rap...

At NJC... stubby chains make you rap.

ORG... giant well maintained Mussys hooks demand that you get down to the ground via a rapid lower off.

ECHO cliffs... they have very worn, old school cold shuts - in questionable stone. I pray right before getting lowered.

The steeper it is - the more difficult it is to clean.

I like the trick about having the follower climb up and remove the first few draws... going to use that one, soon, like this weekend.

Just no hard and fast rules.

Use your brain.

And to the OP.... sometimes it's better to just follow and clean if the route goes sideways or wanders.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Peter D. wrote:Set up as if your would rappel but the belayer keeps the climber on belay and the climber raps on a single strand with a Gri Gri and can easily tram in to each draw. This saves wear on the anchors. Climber and belayer must clearly communicate this is how the climber will descend before leaving the ground!
This sounds like the very definition of "unnecessary clusterfuck."
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

it sounds like the way to do it if you want to make it the most complex and confusing way possible

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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