Add a bolt to "Flying Dutchman" on the Sail?
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Just wanting some community input - the title of my post does not reflect intent. |
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Also, to beat everyone to it, I know the runout face is 5.8. |
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Sam Cannon wrote: the runout face is 5.8./thread |
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HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Hey Sam, I don't think you'll get much (any?) approval on this forum. Probably due to selection bias alone. I would say leave it alone for a couple years, then come back when you're routinely onsighting hard 5.10, and you won't think twice about leading it. |
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Sam Cannon wrote:Also, to beat everyone to it, I know the runout face is 5.8.Have you ever taken a fall on TR while climbing this section? |
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Alec - thanks for the response. I knew the title of my post would draw a lot of negative attention, which is why I tried to quickly qualify my position. |
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As an alternative, hang a static line from the top with a loop tied where you would like pro. Then lead the route and clip the static line as your piece. You get to lead it and the route isn't changed. Best of both worlds. |
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^^^^this |
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If you fall on 5.8 then you deserve to die. |
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Quote of the day: jeff lebowski wrote:If you fall on 5.8 then you deserve to die. And your grandmother will make fun of you at your funeral for falling on 5.8.We need quotes of the day to flash across the MP home page like on bigwalls.net/forum2 This is my vote for the first one. |
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jeff lebowski wrote:If you fall on 5.8 then you deserve to die. And your grandmother will make fun of you at your funeral for falling on 5.8.Yes and yourself be careful on those 20' routes ....you are really dicing with death!. |
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You will not be able to contact Jack Roberts, whom did the FA until the after life. Sadly Jack is gone as he died two years ago while ice climbing in Colorado. |
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No. |
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Geir wrote:As an alternative, hang a static line from the top with a loop tied where you would like pro. Then lead the route and clip the static line as your piece. You get to lead it and the route isn't changed. Best of both worlds.Always kinda joked about doing this... but does anyone have any photos of someone actually doing an FA with a rig like this? |
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I remember seeing Todd Skinner doing it down in Waco Tanks in Texas. There is or was a bolting ban down there so he hung a static line down climbs with loops tied into them and clipped those. So it has been done. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: Always kinda joked about doing this... but does anyone have any photos of someone actually doing an FA with a rig like this?I don't suggest this for an FA, just as an alternative to placing a bolt on an existing bold route. |
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My thought on the matter is this; that everyone from hardman to 1st-timer has a different idea of acceptable risk. With such a wide spectrum of acceptable risk, we are left with only two options when it comes down to the safety of a route. Either we accept the FA's idea of acceptable risk (even or especially after they are gone) or we take it down to the lowest common denominator, which I believe is prolly the gym standard of like 4 feet per bolt. |
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Paul Wilhelmsen wrote:My thought on the matter is this; that everyone from hardman to 1st-timer has a different idea of acceptable risk. With such a wide spectrum of acceptable risk, we are left with only two options when it comes down to the safety of a route. Either we accept the FA's idea of acceptable risk (even or especially after they are gone) or we take it down to the lowest common denominator, which I believe is prolly the gym standard of like 4 feet per bolt. There are soooo many LCC lines I wanna try that are too widely spaced apart for me. And I think, well if those bolts were only 10 ft apart, I'd totally go for it. But the guy right behind me might be saying the exact same thing except 'only 9 ft' and so on. So we are obligated, I think, to leave it to the FA. So I guess my point is that I'm like you, I wanna RP routes that I just don't have the nerve for, but I'd rather look forward to a day when I have the mental fortitude to try a 5.whatever R/X then see the day when I'm confidant to do ANY route cause I can reach the next bolt by standing on the last one.Well said...... |
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Agreed that if you can lead the Dutchman up to that point, you ought to be fine on the upper runout. I recall there being a semi-good red C3 placement in semi-good rock up there to help make you fell all warm and fuzzy as you finish the route. |
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You can definitely send it without dropping a cord off the horn up top Sam. The 5.8 move is no more than 15ft from your last pro, and the climbing after that is much easier. You can nest a few good cams before you cast off for a nice mini anchor. |