Did you Bail...
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Off of the 2nd pitch of "Pony Express" last week? If you did I have your bail rig... BD makes only one micro smaller than this, you lowered of a body weight piece of gear in a marginal placement. I literally climbed past it and lifted it out of the crack, it was not "set." |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:you lowered of a body weight piece of gear in a marginal placement...I'm posting pictures to show your RPPosting in this way is a real turd move. Ryan Kempf wrote:Glad I didn't see an accident thread related to this... I looked.I bet you looked. Then you would have felt soo smart, being able to humblebragshame some poor fool. Mr. Kempf, you are a turd. |
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sprigedy-spray |
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What is that saying about assuming things?? Why do you care so much if this guy has balls the size of Bayonne and will bail off shit you consider marginal with not a scratch to show for it? |
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Sometimes I'll solo a route, place a micronut with some webbing tied to it on the way up, just so some maggot will get upset about a pretend-bail-scenario. |
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I am so glad to learn that nobody has ever, in the history of rock climbing, accidentally left a piece of gear in the rock, and then decided that climbing back up to retrieve a BD micronut wasn't worth the trouble. |
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When I saw the rig up close I thought to myself whoever bailed on this thing really knows what they're doing
Or has no clue. Choosing this piece to bail on was an attempt to save some cash (nothing wrong with that), theres plenty of larger/better gear in and around that section. But hey I get it, leave a piece youll prob never use free climbing. Hell I was a little impressed at the moment, but was a little unnerved by the quality of the placement. |
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This guy's just a badass, not a noob. I mean, one time I lowered off of a slung chicken head, and I was horribly scared- that's nothing compared to this. Much respect. |
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Just thought I'd mention that there are safe ways of backing off a route from a sketchy piece if you are leading that route on double ropes: |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:the wire I replaced.^ Thanks for taking the old nut out. It has always been a bummer that there was fixed gear there. Hopefully you didn't fix another nut there... |
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Legit alpine belay anchor |
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Ryan Watts wrote:Legit alpine belay anchorI would agree, Bridwell and Mugs rapped on something similar on the FA of the Dance of the Woo Li Masters, JIm talks about it in the article. |
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Lot of assumptions in that OP. Who in the hell would want to meet you to get that piece back and deal with your condescension face-to-face? |
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Ryan. You should consider deleting your post. You are sounding toolish. |
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Greg D wrote:Did you really fix another nut after you cleaned the other. Really? Seriously? Nuff said.Lame |
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Lane that I said that or that he did that? |
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So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set? |
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Greg D wrote:Lane that I said that or that he did that?That he did it, if that's what happened. |
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teece303 wrote:So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set? The definition of set that I know would most certainly be activated by putting your body weight onto the piece as you lowered. And un-set piece indicates that it was NOT used for lowering."Set" often implies that the stopper won't wiggle around freely when you put relatively light force on the wire in any direction. The theory is that this implies a more secure placement...but a bad nut placement is a bad nut placement. Some of the best stoppers I've placed have wiggled around like no other (i.e. not "set") but have been trapped in a bomber constriction. |
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teece303 wrote:So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set? The definition of set that I know would most certainly be activated by putting your body weight onto the piece as you lowered. And un-set piece indicates that it was NOT used for lowering.If there is not good surface contact the nut my not sit well. But it is still in a constriction that would make it ok to lower off. It may not take much effort to lift it upwards though. |
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Chill out people, Ryan and Wade watched a guy deck off of Wind Tower a few weeks back and he owes his survival to their prompt assistance. |