Approach Footwear and the Minimal Revolution?

Greetings Mitch et al.,

I am a runner (trail marathon/ultramarathon) and climber and was experiencing massive shin splints and moderate knee problems a few years ago from running. After reading Born To Run, I decided to give "minimalist" running a try, so I began short runs completely barefoot. Cold weather and snowy conditions quickly pushed me into VFFs, then sharp, rocky terrain pushed me into Trail Gloves.

Since moving to these types of footwear, I haven't had any shin splints/knee problems (running at same intensity as before) and running has been great. Last year I bought some Altra Superiors to add back a little cushion for road runs as the Trail Gloves tend to "slap" the pavement." Shin splints immediately came back, even using them for short runs. I think the cushion allowed my foot to start over-pronating again.

So now I use the Altras as you might use an approach shoe and they have been great. I've used them for long Red Rock NV approaches, 4th class peak bagging and even did a 1 day car-to-car Grand Teton climb via the upper Exum route (never switching to climbing shoes). Easy 5th class seems ok, although the traction isn't great and the wide toebox makes edging near impossible, so its more like smearing. My ideal approach shoe I think would be the Altra superiors with approach shoe soles/sticky rubber. They aren't durable (uppers), but very light, extremely comfortable, dry very fast, allow for good "feel" and are pretty cheap these days. I also have some Scarpa appraoch shoes that offer good traction, but seem clunky and restrictive. For long days, I much prefer the Altras.
The Patagonia Rover above looks pretty nice and might be worth a look when the Superiors die.

KevinF wrote:You might check out the new Patagonia Rover: patagonia.com/us/product/me… I just got a pair this week and so far I like them. I've only used them on one minimal approach so far but they seem reasonably well designed and built. I certainly wouldn't crack climb in them as they are pretty light weight. We'll see how they hold up.

I've had two pairs of their running shoes. They are fine for neutral dirt running shoes. The rubber compound they use is incredibly slick. Worse than using plain ol' tennis shoes. Be careful if you have to cross any rock with them.

Check out the Evolv Cruzer. They are doubtlessly the most minimal approach shoe on the market. If you take out the insole they have zero drop and no cushion. Sole thickness is probably no more than 10mm. The toe box is much narrower than standard minimalist shoes but you will want this if you are doing any real footwork on rock.

They are pretty comfortable with no socks but since they are canvas, your feet sweat a LOT and they get utterly rank. No double-duty as around-town shoes.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: No rise, or low rise, does not equal minimalist. Neither of the Altra shoes you posted pictures of are minimalist shoes. They are fully supported low rise shoes.

At this point in the game, the term minimalist has little relative meaning except to denote that something about the shoe has either been stripped down or adapted to promote foot health in regards to recent criticisms of modern shoe design. Companies like Scarpa have coined the term "mountain minimal" that apparently means stripped down in some fashion but still having some protection for mountain use. It is up to the end user to be educated on what aspects they are looking for or need in said shoe.

Both of the Altras I listed are zero drop with zero arch support, lack any sort of posting in the medial midsole, and have a last that is widest at the ends of the toes, not the metatarsal heads. To me, these features make the shoe "minimal" to the point that they promote foot health. If I wanted less in a shoe, I would look for less.

Josh - thanks for the tip on the Merrell Proterra. Looks like they have a leather version, I will definitely check those out.

I have a pair of Evolve Cruzers and they are great for descents. The toe box is too narrow to allow for splay, but it is a tradeoff for climbing performance. This seems like it will be a reoccurring topic in the years to come (wide toe box/adequate toe splay vs. narrow toe box/better climbing performance) In my case, without a wide area at the tips of the toes, my plantar fasciitis will return and so this feature along with zero drop will be the most important feature for me (any probably many others).

I found that 'minimal' shoes actually are really useful for not too strenuous approaches with long multi-pitch climbing and top-out walk-offs. My shoes (which are essentially socks with rubber) weigh about 200g and roll up into the size of my fist. This is really helpful to take a really small backpack/carry with you on the way up.

I love (trail) running in them as well but they wear out quickly relative to a sturdier shoe.

Like most things in climbing, it depends. The "best" approach shoe depends on what kind of approach you are talking about.

For me it comes down to:

- how long is the approach?
- how technical is the approach (trail? Talus field? 3rd/4th class? Low 5th?)
- how technical is the climb (i.e. am I bring dedicated rock shoes or am I planning on climbing the whole thing in my approach shoes?)

For me, if the approach is truly long (say 5+ miles) I almost always reach for my trail runners (Sportiva wildcats). They are pretty burly, climb reasonably well, and are comfortable on long hikes.

If the approach is shorter but more technical, or I'm not bring rock shoes, then I like 5.10 guide tennies. They climb better than the sportivas but I find them less than ideal for really long stuff. They're also lighter and less bulky so even if I have rock shoes I would rather climb with these clipped to my harness or in my pack than my trail runners.

If the "approach" is short and non-technical (like walking to the crag), then it really doesn't matter. Usually sandals or tennies for me depending on the weather.

Here in Tucson there are several areas with multipitch routes that you hike to the top of, rack up and then walk down to the base to start your route. I hate carrying shoes as I climb, so I've taken to doing most of the approach to the rack up area in normal approach shoes, but then leaving them there and taping my feet for the hike down to the bottom. It doesn't have much friction on rock slabs but it does prevent your feet from getting cut up too badly and allows you to not need to carry shoes on the climb with you.

Alex McIntyre wrote:Here in Tucson there are several areas with multipitch routes that you hike to the top of, rack up and then walk down to the base to start your route. I hate carrying shoes as I climb, so I've taken to doing most of the approach to the rack up area in normal approach shoes, but then leaving them there and taping my feet for the hike down to the bottom. It doesn't have much friction on rock slabs but it does prevent your feet from getting cut up too badly and allows you to not need to carry shoes on the climb with you.

You might enjoy this thread if you haven't seen it before- mountainproject.com/v/looki…