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SMC Spire Belay Device

Original Post
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Has anyone tried this yet? It looks pretty sweet, pretty simple.

smcgear.net/spire-atc-belay…



I am looking for a new device and would like some feedback on this one if anyone has experience with it!

Pete
Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

Pete,

Like any device, the lowering mechanism takes a little bit to get used to when belaying from above, but after practice it is smoother and quicker than other devices.

It is best suited for skinnier ropes. I used it to belay on half ropes the other day and found it quite smooth, and rappelling on the half ropes I had adequate friction. When I put a single rope in it above 9.4mm, I found it to cause a lot of friction.

Just my opinion.

[edit] english

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Just another ATC style design, all of which are just copies of the function of the trusty old 40 plus old designed Sticht spring plate belay device.....which never failed me. I've found some of these new fangled designs, being made just to cut into the belay device market( a tool everybody must own,sport or traddie'),, well some are just too funky with pinching the rope, not smoothly allowing rope to move quickly when needed... I've purchased endless samples of belay devices and have at least 5 or 6 that are totally worthless on anything fatter than a 9.8 rope. The trend is for people to use skinny ropes now,,,so they should REALLY not say the devices will work on a 10.2, etc. anymore. Older 'fat'ropes , use an older belay device that fits it right.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

I usually use a 70m biweave sterling marathon 10.2 (or is it .1? I forget).

I usually use the Omega Pacific SBG II, but I've been hammering mine and was looking for something new. Honestly, I may just stick with an Ovo. I hate carrying 2 devices but that old one I had was great to 2 climbers... haven't seen an autoblocker that held a candle to that thing.

Can't get much better for paying out rope than the SBGII on fat... and I mean FAT ropes. Same is probably true of the ovo and gigi.

Anyone know of any options out there that do work better?

(on the flip side, if only I could lead belay with an Ovo/GiGi)...

Pete

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

So I'm assuming the larger hole on the top left of the device is for setting up an anchor autoblock. What is the other, smaller hole directly adjacent to it for?

Stephen Ackley · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 642


The smaller hole is for a carabiner like shown above.

You lever the device sideways so that the load strand rolls off the belay strand, releasing the load.

Ordered mine a couple weeks back and I'm still waiting for a box or a response from SMC...

I've also heard about lots of friction with fatter ropes, though I just noticed that SMC has the range listed on their website with a max of 10.7mm!

So... we'll see. Reviewers from the American Alpine Institute seemed to like it.
Stephen Ackley · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 642

Anyways......

Peter, I'll be happy to post my experience with the Spire when my order comes in.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Please would you guys quit turning this thread into an excuse to be jerks to each other? Thanks.

Information about this device is appreciated, however. If you have info or experience, please post.

I already find it interesting that my pic and the other pic are actually different with where the top holes are located. Probably beta versions versus final.

Chris Graham · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 545

I've used mine a couple of times now and this is what I have found:
1.Any rope 9.6 and above is a real pain in the neck trying to take up on auto block mode. The device feels jumpy and sticks. 9.2 and below seem to do ok. Not sure why they designed the device with such a narrow opening, but it is what it is.
2. rappels beautifully, smooth and easy with little to no twist in the rope.
3. Seems to pay out slack to the leader fine on some of the larger diameter ropes...but 10.7?? That would be a stretch! We used a sterling 9.4 yesterday and it was fine but not as smooth as the ATC guide, Reverso 4 or Mammut smart alpine.
4. It does lower nicely and that is the real benefit of this device. Friction on the 9.4 was manageable and I am sure that the lower would be much smoother on a thinner cord!
5. Use and set up is very intuitive. I found that when set up in auto block mode that if you pull the slack in straight down from the device vs out towards you in a horizontal manner the rope takes in better. Still, the device felt a bit jumpy to me...maybe something to get used to but much more friction on the take than most devices due to the narrow openings.

All in all not a world changer, but a good device, light as hell, well finished and will be nice to guide with as lowering the seconds has always been a pain in the neck with the other devices on the market. I started going back to the munter and had hoped that this might take its place, but I need to give it some more time.

Steve Marshall · · Concord NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I found it is pretty sweet for the right circumstance... but thin ropes only.

On a pair of 7.8 ice lines it was absolutely perfect, rappelling, lead belaying, and top-belaying. And half the weight of any other ATC-style device. The lowering feature works really well and is easy to control.

I even thought it was a little too grabby on my 8.5mm mammut genesis half ropes. If your belay is not situated at a nice working height, it takes a lot more work to pull the rope thru this device. But when it is set right this thing is smooth as butter. So set nice belays.

Haven't tried it on my 9.5 edelrid rope yet, given its performance on the 8.5s I don't think it will be very good. Will check back in. I also have a skinny 9.1 petzl line I may check it out on.

It has at least earned a permanent spot on my alpine/ice rack, but if it sucks with thicker ropes, which is my suspicion, I probably won't carry it in rock climbing weather.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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