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Tips on rehab/recovery of finger injury

Original Post
drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

Hey all, been looking around and haven't really been able to find much info on my finger injury. It's not a pulley (least I don't think so).

Had some creakiness in my right ring finger for while and sort of just got used to it/stopped paying attention. Anyways, about a month ago I was bouldering, most of my weight in a two finger (middle/ring) pocket, and swinging feet from left to right, heard/felt a pop. And then some pain in my palm below my ring finger, my wrist, and all the way down my forearm. Iced in a bucket morning and night for a week, along with advil morning and night.

Fast forward to two weeks later, pain is mostly gone except when I isolate the ring finger from my pinky (like accidentally when pulling on a door handle, chopping veggies), at which point I feel pain below the attachment to my hand and into my palm. Seems like I can pull basically full strength with zero pain on 4 finger edges, it's literally just when the pinky drops that it hurts. Like the equivalent of a middle two finger pocket or a three finger edge.

So I went to a doctor. The only thing they said was "hey you didn't rupture a tendon, just tweaked it". Also said something rather unconvincing about the tendon rolling or twisting inside the sheath, equivalent to the tendon being "plucked" like a guitar string, thus the pain in my forearm at the time of injury.

So, at this point there has been basically no improvement. Haven't been climbing at all (except a sneaky trip to Jtree but that was all cracks, no pain issues there) but I did some pull-ups on a bar two days ago (can't climb, starting to go insane), and had a day or two of dull pain in my palm, same place.

So, drawing upon the vast knowledge base that is MP, what the heck did I do to my hand, and how do I make it better? Maybe this can turn into a resource for folks with similar injuries as well.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

I have no specific advice to give your that is directly related to you finger. However, I can recommend a few sources of information. I suggest you give a good thorough reading of everything that Dave Macleod has posted on the topic. He is probably one of the best-informed sources on this topic, at least amongst the English-speaking (well, sort of; the Scottish are barely intelligible) world. He also generally advocates a more aggressive approach to rehab, allowing climbing to resume much earlier than most other people would suggest; you'll be happy with this approach if you are antsy to climb. Have a look here:

onlineclimbingcoach.blogspo… (scroll to near the bottom for the finger injury posts)

Also have a look at Dr. Julian Saunders. Another excellent source, also from a country that seems to speak some funny variant on the English language. He's even a real doctor.

drjuliansaunders.com/resour…

drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

I've looked at Dr. J., not much outside of pulleys.

However I just took a look at Dave Macleod's blog and he had something about flexor unit strains:

onlineclimbingcoach.blogspo…

This seems pretty accurate to what I've got, and the recommendation is just to climb openhanded.

Sick! Thanks so much man.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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