Bad anchors

mr. mango wrote:

The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

rging wrote: The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..

not even sure how they put the big rusty nail into the solid granite face... but i was happy when i rapped down to the next (sketchy) anchors, this is at the top of Chuinard A and Chuinard B, both great routes at Insubong (B is much better though), just outside of Seoul, SK.

Darren Mabe wrote: dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..

Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

kennoyce wrote: Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

touche!

And here I thought this was sketch!

Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

Stu Ritchie wrote: Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

Nice one ! But maybe this is just a bolted bouldering problem... And somebody left the sling during an epic retreat in the middle of a storm ?!

Darren Mabe wrote: dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..

There's no indication of galvanic corrosion in the photo. The bolt and washer are stainless steel. The hanger was probably originally galvanized, but the Zn is long gone, so what you see is common rust.

mr. mango wrote:

Hey that's my pic! I thought you wrote "post your pics". Uploaded 2011

Bold TextAnd this thread already exists, see here.

Found on the Southwest Face of the Wedge outside of Butte, Montana.

Ha ha mr. mango - you were there before May 23, 2008…I just couldn't bring myself to pull that historical bolt since I had to drill a new hole regardless (very tough to reuse the old hole with ancient rusty 3/8" Star-Dryvins - at least with a hand drill). I don't know what's up with the other old hole, they probably broke the drill bit or the first bolt and had to start again!

Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber...

"A6" anchor on Fisher Towers

alleyehave wrote:Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber... "A6" anchor on Fisher Towers

Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6?

conclusivesystems.com/danger/

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Bomber anchor in Huasteca, NL Mexico. Hardware store cord around a dead nub

Ryan Nevius wrote: Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6? conclusivesystems.com/danger/ supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Easy aggro, point made...

david goldstein wrote:

Yeah, I've belayed off of something like this once. Up on a big ledge, 2nd pitch.